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Atlanta’s Cosmopolitan Cuisine: |
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A Dozen and One Dining Delights
by Jan Butsch Schroder
Not so many years ago, spinach puffs served at the Coach & Six Restaurant were about as haute as cuisine in Atlanta got. The city had its share of “meat and three” restaurants, which specialized in all things fried, but most folks ate at home.
That’s not the case in post-Olympic Atlanta. The city has come a long way, baby. In the past 10 years, the restaurant scene in this international city has exploded. Atlanta became the home of many Fortune 500 companies and the world’s busiest airport, adding thousands of diners to its population, and as the city gained prestige, so did its restaurants.
Consider this: out of the 14 restaurants in the country awarded five stars by the Mobil Travel Guide in 2005 two of them are in Atlanta. What’s more, it is estimated that in 2004, Atlantans spent more than $5.3 billion on food away from home. Take a seat at some of the places mentioned on these pages and you’ll see why.
With the city’s intense growth and burgeoning foreign population, it’s safe to say that no matter what you’re looking for in a dining experience, from sushi to Southern, Atlanta has it. Despite all the changes in the food scene, you can still find plenty of fried chicken and yes, macaroni and cheese on lots of menus listed as a vegetable.
Impossible as it was to narrow a list of favorites, in honor of our lucky thirteenth issue, here are a dozen and one dining delights to check out on your next visit to the southern capital.
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MF Sushibar
Atlanta boasts plenty of restaurants that serve a selection of nigiri and norimaki, but MF Sushibar was the first in the city to serve only sushi. Located in Midtown, MF Sushibar has quickly become the restaurant of choice for sushi connoisseurs. The name comes from “Magic Fingers,” the nickname for co-owner and chef, Chris Kinj. It was his skill as a sushi artist that earned him that nickname. Grab a seat at the bar and enjoy the show as Chris and his magic fingers fly, crafting beautiful, edible art out of the freshest fish available. MF Sushi flies its sushi directly from Japan to Atlanta overnight.
Chris owns the restaurant with his brother Alex, who designed the restaurant in a sophisticated, Los Angeles-meets-Asia style that takes you far from the busy Ponce De Leon Avenue the restaurant sits on. Well-dressed waitstaff move to the techno beat around the blond wood fixtures of the sleek décor.
With more than 45 choices, the sake list is extensive, but knowledgeable waitstaff are glad to help with your selection of both sake and sushi. Beer and wine are also available. If you’re watching your travel dollars, visit at lunch when specials come with miso soup and ginger salad.
Travelgirl tip: Hardcore sushi fans know to ask Chris or the waitstaff for special items made with exotic fish for a truly unique sushi experience.
Lunch and dinner. 265 Ponce De Leon Ave, 404-815-8844, www.mfsushibar.com
Vinocity Wine Bar and Restaurant
Midtown has become the hot entertainment district of Atlanta, with new restaurants and bars opening every month. Vinocity is housed in a converted historic Victorian home from the 1890’s, a reminder of this neighborhood’s past as a purely residential area. But the inside is thoroughly modern yet still elegant, with a lounge, dining room and private cellar. Check out the balcony off the dining room for a scenic view of downtown Atlanta.
Vinocity hosts events in the wine garden, from wine tastings to movies to live music, and has become popular as a classy place for a romantic evening or simply a fun spot for friends to gather and sip on a glass of the more than 70 types of wine available.
The menu complements the wines, with the dinner menu changing seasonally. Items include salads, small plates and entrees ranging from New York strip to crab cakes to mojo chicken breast. Lunch is available Monday through Friday.
Travelgirl tip: Vinocity offers a pre-theater dinner of three courses for just $24. It’s also a convenient place to enjoy a glass of wine after a night at the Fox Theatre or a concert at the nearby Woodruff Arts Center .
Lunch and dinner. 36 13th Street, 404-870-8666, www.vinocitywinebar.com
The Patio at Rathbun's
Rathbun’s, Krog Bar
Opened in 2004, Rathbun’s quickly became one of Atlanta’s hottest restaurants and was named one of the country’s best new restaurants by Esquire magazine and one of the hot 50 restaurants in the country by Bon Appetit in 2005. Owned by one of Atlanta’s celebrity chefs, Kevin Rathbun, the restaurant is located in Inman Park. Atlanta’s first suburb, the neighborhood is still home to many grand old Victorian mansions and is listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
Rathbun’s is in an industrial space that has been renovated into an “industrial meets modern” design. Some of the exposed brick walls remain, accented with dark wood and light gray walls. Long sheers on the windows and white tablecloths soften the atmosphere.
Chef Kevin calls his cuisine “modern American food that is seasonally and globally driven.” His menu is divided into four sections: Small Plates, Raw Plates, Big Plates and Second Mortgage Plates. Examples of a Second Mortgage Plate are Maine lobster and roasted green chile taco, cascabel cream and tomato pico and veal chop with sweet corn and gouda cheese fondue.
Rathbun’s newly opened Krog Bar is in the same complex and features Mediterranean-inspired small plates, international wines, gelatos and coffee with seating for just 40 inside and a patio outside with five tables.
Travelgirl tip: Do not miss dessert here. Served in small portions for only $3.15, you can enjoy one almost guilt-free. Try the Banana Peanut Butter Cream Pie or if chocolate is mandatory, the Georgia Pecan Tart with Chocolate Brownie Crust, and Vanilla Bean Ice Cream.
Dinner only. 112 Krog Street, 404-524-8280, www.rathbunsrestaurant.com
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Shout
Located in the heart of Midtown at the corner of 14th and Peachtree streets, Shout opened in early February 2005 and within days cars were lining up outside for the instantly popular eatery. Located in an office, hotel and condominium complex known as Colony Square, Shout is open for lunch but really comes alive at night as folks show up for “food, fun, flirt,” a fitting motto for this hotspot.
At 18,000 square feet, the restaurant seats an impressive 600. The main floor has a dining room and a sushi bar, where take-out is available. Plush red banquettes, dark ceilings and dark wood are accented by brightly colored pillows, wood furniture and a circular yellow bar. Cylindrical sculptures lining red benches resemble a row of happy, colorful sea creatures.
Walk upstairs, pay the $10 cover and you’ll find yourself in Skybar, the VIP lounge with mustard walls, a tile fireplace and long rows of white bench seating. Step outside and you’ve entered South Beach on Peachtree with wicker seating, fireplaces and heaters for when the weather turns cool. Reserve one of the private cabanas and you’ll feel like a movie star. Each cabana has its own TV, a wood floor, plenty of seating for your entourage and privacy drapes. Rates start at $200 an hour.
The menu includes sandwiches, salad bowls, build-your-own pizzas and salads, as well as specialties such as sweet-spiced Australian lamb loin, mustard grilled halibut and Masaman curried jumbo sea scallops.
Shout
Travelgirl tip: To avoid long lines, arrive before 7:00 p.m., as the restaurant takes on a club atmosphere at night.
Lunch and dinner. 1197 Peachtree Street, 404-846-2000, www.heretoserverestaurants.com
Two Urban Licks
Another relative newcomer to the Atlanta dining scene, Two Urban Licks is the sister restaurant of the popular One Midtown Kitchen. It describes itself as “hip meets honky-tonk” and you’ll find out why – once you navigate your way through the back of a former loading dock to find the parking area, that is!
Located in a renovated industrial warehouse (are you noticing a theme here?) you would think that the first thing you’d notice would be the 18-by-24-foot painting of a girl surrounded by wild cats by artist Todd Murphy. But even that is overshadowed by the centerpiece of the restaurant, a rotating14-foot open fire rotisserie and a refurbished 1895 forge that had been used as a hearth to transform metals into wrought iron. “The rotisserie has a dramatic impact on the atmosphere of the dining room,” says co-owner Bob Amick, “It’s dining by candlelight, but we have a really big candle.”
Executive chef and partner Scott Serpas combines New Orleans style cooking with Southwestern heat. The menu changes daily but includes items such as lemon crab fritters, jumbo barbecue shrimp, pork tenderloin and beef brisket. You can also make a really tasty, fun meal with the appetizers here, which include baby back ribs and the lamb lollipop served with chili jam and goat cheese.
Don’t look for bottles of wine here – wine is stored in 42 stainless steel barrels. You can try out a wine with a three-ounce tasting before ordering a 16- or 32-ounce “thief.”
As for the honky-tonk part, check out the live blues playing from Wednesday through Saturday evenings.
Travelgirl tip: Be sure to step all the way to the back of the restaurant for a fabulous view of downtown Atlanta.
Dinner only. 820 Ralph McGill Boulevard, 404-522-4622, www.twourbanlicks.com
City Grill
Walk into City Grill in downtown Atlanta and you’ll swear you’ve stepped into a grand hotel in Europe. One of the most beautiful restaurants in Atlanta, the dining room boasts a 30-foot gilt ceiling and a floor-to-ceiling hand-painted mural. And it’s just about impossible to see that beautiful marble staircase without imagining yourself in an elegant ball gown descending each step gracefully, Scarlett O’Hara style.
The food is “American, straight up with a twist” with a focus on regional and seasonal food. The menus are updated daily and sample items include North Georgia rabbit, crab cakes, and New Zealand rack of lamb. For a true taste of Georgia, try the pan-fried Georgia quail served with a country biscuit from the appetizer menu.
Check out the special “Pre-show” menu available Monday through Saturday from 5:00 to 6:30 p.m. If you have saved any room, by all means order the cheese course, which features cheeses from Sweet Grass Dairy in Thomasville, Georgia, where the goats and cows happily roam free.
Travelgirl tip: If romance is on the menu, reserve the Hurt Room, which includes your own room, waitstaff, special menu and a violinist. It would be the perfect place for a proposal, and an even lovelier place for a true Southern wedding reception.
Lunch and dinner. 50 Hurt Plaza, 404-524-2489, www.citygrillatlanta.com
Misto
Located on the west side of Atlanta on a particularly traffic-congested road, you might drive right past Misto. Don’t. Step inside and you’ll find yourself in a charming little Italian restaurant that has people from all over the city making the drive for its delicious pastas and thick slices of warm, crusty ciabatta bread at affordable prices.
The atmosphere is warm, casual and cozy. There is nothing flashy here – black and white photos and dried flowers on wooden shelves line pumpkin colored walls. When the weather is nice, the outdoor patio is another option.
Notable dishes include seafood risotto, pan-seared salmon and specials such as osso buco with butternut squash, pumpkin ravioli and chestnut honey risotto. A favorite dessert is the hollowed-out pumpkin filled with creamy gelato.
Travelgirl tip: Don’t be afraid to ask for seconds, or even thirds on the baskets of warm ciabatta bread.
Dinner only. 1950 Howell Mill Road, 404-425-0030
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Murphy’s
Murphy's
Celebrating its 25th anniversary this year, Murphy’s started as a small deli in a basement in 1981, and grew to a beloved Atlanta institution as the surrounding Virginia-Highland neighborhood became one of the most sought-after places to live. After a move to its present location in the early ‘90s, the fare became more sophisticated but lost none of its popularity. The new location is upscale, yet comfortably casual and solo diners would feel right at home dining at the bar. The patio is great for people watching at this busy corner of Virginia and North Highland Avenues.
Murphy’s has the reputation as the quintessential place in town for brunch. People wait in lines for hours on weekends for the treat, which features the best biscuits in town and several popular a la carte items such as omelettes, frittatas, pancakes and other egg specialties. Arrive before 10:00 to avoid the crowds.
Lunch and dinner are also popular, with items such as seared salmon BLT, spinach and Italian sausage meatloaf and sautéed rainbow trout. Share the guilt by splitting one of the worth-every-calorie desserts such at tollhouse pie or the bonzo, a chocolate lover’s delight of fudge brownie, cheesecake, dark chocolate mouse, whipped cream and chocolate sauce.
The Wine Shop hosts themed wine tastings every Tuesday, and frequent Wednesday Wine Seminars for more in-depth information on winemaking.
Travelgirl tip: Put your name on the list and if there’s a wait, cross the street to the several great shops. Don’t miss Mitzi & Romano’s for adorable additions to your wardrobe.
Lunch and dinner and weekend brunch. 997 Virginia Avenue, 404-872-0904, www.murphysvh.com
Nava
Nava
Mmmmm. Located in the heart of Buckhead, Nava features Southwestern cuisine with items such as Sonoma Jack cheese fritters, suncorn crusted snapper, rock shrimp enchiladas and ancho chile venison. Save room for the baskets of delicious blue corn bread sticks served with your meal. Margaritas and fresh-fruit mojitos are specialties. For dessert, try the roasted banana enchilada with warm caramel sauce or key lime pie with vanilla cookie crust and marinated strawberries.
The atmosphere is upscale hacienda, with plastered walls, a kiva-style fireplace, and Southwestern art on three levels. The outdoor patio is one of the loveliest in town, bordered by a lushly landscaped fountain right on Atlanta’s most famous street. Visit on Wednesday night and enjoy the sounds of live flamenco guitar music. Many natives choose Nava as a perfect place for a date or for dessert on the patio after an evening out.
Travelgirl tip: Nava is part of the Buckhead Life Restaurant Group, a group of 10 distinct restaurants. You can’t go wrong with any of them. www.buckheadrestaurants.com
Lunch and dinner. 3060 Peachtree Road, 404-240-1984
Sala
Serving the best margaritas with the tastiest chips and salsa in town, Sala is a small and charming restaurant in the popular Virginia-Highland neighborhood. In Spanish the word Sala refers to a parlor where people gather to celebrate, and Sala lives up to its name as a lively place, often hosting margarita tastings or special menus from a particular region of Mexico.
The décor is minimalist without being cold: dark wood furniture and floors, light colored walls and modern lighting. It’s casual chic without an attitude.
Dishes include bay scallops marinated in orange juice, grilled spice-rubbed rib eye topped with a habanero pico de gallo and seared shrimp in a spicy tomato-chipotle sauce. Don’t miss the side dish of élote, grilled corn on the cob rubbed with mayonnaise, añejo cheese and chili powder.
Lunch is served here every day, and the menu is extensive with many items for less than $10. The selection includes ceviches, soups, salads, tacos and enchiladas. The pozole rojo, a hominy and pork stew is a filling and recommended warm-you-up dish for when the city’s temperature starts to drop.
Travelgirl tip: After dinner, stroll down North Highland Avenue and stop in at Paolo’s on Virginia Avenue for authentic Italian gelato.
Lunch and dinner. 1186 North Highland Avenue, 404-872-7203, www.sala-atlanta.com
Tamarind Thai Cuisine
Thirty years ago about the only noodle food you could get in Atlanta would be the yellow kind from the box of Kraft macaroni and cheese. And if you asked for Thai, people would think you were just using a particularly southern pronunciation of the beverage of choice down South, sweet tea. Nowadays, the city boats more than 40 Thai restaurants, several of which are outstanding.
Located right near the downtown connector, close to Georgia Tech, Tamarind Thai Cuisine is the true Thai-lovers choice for its authentic cuisine, sophisticated décor and excellent service. The usual Thai dishes are all here, along with specials designed to stimulate the five senses of sweet, sour, neutral, salty and hot. Try the waterfall beef, strips of steak marinated in tamarind and chile peppers and cooked with shallots, sesame seeds, and mint leaves.
Although it is located on busy 14th Street, right next to the downtown connector, the patio is landscaped for a relatively private, peaceful meal.
Travelgirl tip: The folks at Tamarind have a fondness for chilies. If you don’t want to get burned, pay attention to the hotness guide and order accordingly.
Lunch and dinner. 80 14th Street, 404-873-4888
Woodfire Grill
Atlanta may be thousands of miles away from the California wine country, but you can have a taste of it at Woodfire Grill. Chef Michael Tuohy features cuisine with a Northern California flavor, and as an advocate for organic foods, he uses seasonal produce from local farms as well as organic meats, seafood and poultry. True to its name, the restaurant features fire-roasted and grilled meats and wood-fired pizzas. With the grill right in the front of the restaurant, be sure to pause for a moment to watch the food come fresh out of the oven, usually manned by Chef Tuohy himself.
The menu changes nightly and some items included are wood-oven roasted Mediterranean mussels and littleneck clams, wood-grilled Hudson Valley quail and Bernadette's garden squash blossoms stuffed with herbed goat cheese. Entrees include Columbia River salmon, wood-grilled rib eye and Colorado lamb chops. Save room for the wide selection of artisanal cheeses, which varies and is listed on the dessert menu. Woodfire even has a Cheese Club that meets twice a month.
The décor is cozy and decorated in warm earth tones. The wood benches and paneling were custom made for the restaurant. Tables are close together and you may overhear your neighbor’s conversation, but hey, maybe you can pick up a few travel tips!
For a more casual dining experience, try the Café at Woodfire, located in the front room of the restaurant, which serves paninis, salads and wood-fired pizzas and burgers.
Travelgirl tip: Get half off all bottles of wine on Sunday nights. And even if you never order chicken in a restaurant, you’ll want to check out “Rocky the Free-Range Chicken,” a wood-fired delight.
Dinner only. 1782 Cheshire Bridge Road, 404-347-9055. www.woodfiregrill.com
South City Kitchen
If it’s a taste of the New South you’re craving, South City Kitchen specializes in contemporary Southern cuisine. Here you’ll find fried green tomatoes, Charleston she-crab soup, buttermilk fried chicken and pan-roasted Georgia trout. Along with the meal comes a basket of fresh buttermilk biscuits and corn muffins, just like your mamma would make if she were a true Southern cook.
Every Sunday is barbecue night, served family-style with sides and dessert. Sunday brunch is popular and dishes include Banana Mascarpone French Toast and Crab Hash.
Set on a tree-lined side street in Midtown, South City is in a charming two-storey converted home and is within walking distance of the High Museum of Art and Woodruff Arts Center. In good weather, check out the patio for great people watching and possible celebrity sightings.
Travelgirl tip: The atmosphere here can be rather lively, so if you’re looking for a quiet spot you may want to look elsewhere.
Lunch, dinner and weekend brunch. 1144 Crescent Ave, (near 14th Street), 404-873-7358, www.southcitykitchen.com
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Five Dollars or Five Stars?
Here’s the scoop on Atlanta’s four and five-star restaurants as well as a few favorites for a more affordable meal from restaurants that have items starting at five dollars or less.
Five Dollars
Fellini’s Pizza. Multiple locations. 23 Ponce de Leon Avenue, 404-607-0665
Doc Chey’s. Huge noodle bowls and cold beers. Multiple locations. www.doccheys.com
The Varsity. An Atlanta institution serving naked dogs and frosted oranges. Multiple locations. The original is at 61 North Avenue, 404-881-1706, www.thevarsity.com
Taqueria del Sol. Best fish tacos in town for $1.95. 1200-B Howell Mill Road, 404-352-5811, www.taqueriadelsol.com
Five Stars
The Dining Room at The Ritz-Carlton. Prix fixe dinners of classic French cuisine with wine pairings. 3434 Peachtree Road, 404-237-2700, www.ritzcarlton.com
Seeger’s. Five-course menu or eight-course chef’s menu of modern-classical cuisine 111 West Paces Ferry Road, 404-846-9779, www.seegers.com
Four Stars
Bacchanalia. Prix fixe dinners of classic combinations with a modern flair. Dine like royalty in the smaller, sister restaurant, Quinones, downstairs. 1198 Howell Mill Road, 404-365-0410, www.starprovisions.com
Park 75 at the Four Seasons. Contemporary dishes using regional ingredients in a classic setting. 75 14th Street, 404-253-2840, www.fourseasons.com/atlanta |
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