SHOP
Every travelgirl knows to schedule at least a little time into her itinerary for shopping, and a trip to Philadelphia should be no exception. Skip the malls and chain stores and search out the dozens of one-of-a-kind boutiques hidden all over town. If money isn t an issue and you are out for that Sex in the City look, Joan Shepp, on Walnut Street at 16th, is the store calling your name. From high fashion to funky accessories, you will surely find something to turn you on at this eclectic shop. Up the street is Inguz, a boutique jammed with fabulous options it s hard to imagine getting lost for hours in this small store, but it has been known to happen.

Also on the Philadelphia priority list: a visit to the jewelry store Halloween, at 1329 Pine Street. There is nothing like it anywhere else case after case of one-of-a-kind beads, bangles and serious to-die-for jewelry. The shop itself is worth seeing and SOTA (Spirit of the Artist) is just a few blocks away, down Pine Street, in the heart of Philadelphia s Historic

Antique Row. This beautiful artisan shop carries hip, affordable gifts. Owner Frank Burkhauser makes sure to tell every visitor that all the merchandise is made by people he knows.

The Old City neighborhood is where historic sites meet sizzling hot nightlife. The by-product is soho-ish furniture, art and fashion. North Third Street, from Market Street to Race, houses many of these stores and galleries, which have less traditional and more diverse offerings. From Indigo, which boasts tribal folk art from Asia, Africa and the Americas, to stylish boutiques such as Molletta and Vagabond, Old City stores are fun to wander around even if you don t plan to buy. Throw in a few home-furnishing options, like Kellijane and Foster's Urban Homeware, and even the strongest-willed woman will have difficulty walking away empty handed. Oh, did I mention that there is no sales tax on clothing in Pennsylvania?

There are also dozens of art galleries in this neighborhood. If you happen to be visiting on the first Friday night of any month, take in the First Friday Celebration, a big party on the streets of Old City from 6-9 pm that attracts many people to the galleries, which stay open late for the occasion.

The Rittenhouse Hotel is recognized as one of the top boutique hotels in the country.

The Penn View Hotel (standard room $120-$165) offers a European-styled environment in the heart of historic Philadelphia. This 52 unit family-owned hotel offers beautifully appointed rooms just blocks from theatre, dining, art galleries and all historic attractions. Ristorante Panorama/Il Bar, located in the hotel, is a wine-lovers paradise, claiming the largest wine-preservation system in the world, which allows for a list of 120 wines by glass at any given time. The wine can be enjoyed in flights (1.5 oz tastes of 5 different wines), by the glass or by the bottle. The accompanying Italian menu makes for one of the most delightful meals around.

DINE
In stereotypical fashion, tourists flock to Philadelphia in search of soft pretzels and cheesesteaks. But anybody who has spent time in Philly in the past decade will rave about the incomparable restaurant scene. Districts like Old City and its neighbor, Northern Liberties, have fueled the latest restaurant revolution. Dozens of bistros, gourmet establishments and bars line the streets of these neighborhoods. Restaurateur Stephen Starr is the king of Philadelphia s hippest dining emporiums: Washington Square, Buddakan, Morimoto, El Vez, Angelina and the Continental. Nothing at these restaurants is taken for granted the rich ambiance of each location is intriguing and the designs of each space as delicious on the eyes as the food is on the stomach. Everything at Mr. Starr s restaurants is aimed at providing an experience that you will talk about long after you leave.

If you are interested in something more casual, with less glitz, but still providing fresh, high quality food, then seek out one of Philadelphia s burgeoning BYOBs (bring your own bottle). All alcohol sales in Pennsylvania, including wine, are regulated by the state. Sometimes restaurants forgo liquor licenses, but allow patrons to bring their own wine. There are dozens of outstanding BYOBs to choose from, but a few options include Raddichio (Italian dining in Old City), Aden (Mediterranean fare in Northern Liberties), Pif (French cuisine in South Philadelphia) and Django (eclectic meals in the South Street area).

A description of gastronomic Philadelphia would not be complete without mentioning a few neighborhoods known for their food. Like most big cities, Philadelphia has a Chinatown, which over the past few years has become a virtual melting pot of Asian cuisine. You ll find a plethora of Chinese, Thai, Vietnamese, Japanese and Indonesian options. This neighborhood is located near the Convention Center, between 9th and 11th Streets or by the bottle. The accompanying Italian menu makes for one of the most delightful meals around. and Vine and Arch Streets.

The streets of South Philadelphia (or South Philly if you want to sound authentic) are lined with delicious Italian restaurants. Try to visit the Italian Market during the day. Hawkers display their wares produce, meat, cheese, and of course, cannolis. It is easy to forget you are in Philadelphia, and not in a Venetian village!

Another favorite lunchtime stop is the Reading Terminal Market. It's an old train shed that s been converted into a gourmand s dream: endless aisles of vendors selling every food imaginable. There are cheese, bread and spice stores, bakeries and candy-makers, as well as vegetarian vendors and hoagie stands. Thai, Italian, Middle Eastern& infinite options for the tastebuds. The Amish, who bring fresh products straight from their farms in Lancaster, run a whole section of the market. And of course, several vendors sell authentic Philadelphia cheesesteaks. Go at 3 p.m., when the lunchtime crowd is gone and there is more room to roam.

RELAX
When you hit the point where you have to walk off that last meal before purchasing the next one, you ll be glad you re in Philadelphia, for the city has one of the most beautiful riverfront walks in the country. Starting next to the Art Museum, at Boat House Row, there is a paved path that runs up one side of the Schuylkill River before crossing over and running back down the other side. The loop is a little over eight miles. Rent bicycles, rollerblade or just enjoy a stroll along the water. Wander over to the newly restored Fairmount Water Works Interpretive Center, dedicated to educating citizens about their community and environment, especially the urban watershed. Photo op: You can t miss the Greek revival buildings overlooking the river.

CELEBRATE
To commemorate the 85th Anniversary of Pennsylvania's ratification of the 19th Amendment to the U.S. Constitution, which gave women the right to vote, the Valley Forge Convention and Visitors Bureau has initiated Women Advancing, a celebratory collaboration of this historic event. For more information: www.womenadvancing.com. (Valley Forge is about 30 minutes outside of Philadelphia.)

The best way to experience all the special Women Advancing events is with the Women Advancing Hotel Package (www.gophila.com/accommodations) The package includes two nights for the price of one and free parking at a variety of hotels in the Philadelphia suburbs.

Special events include: Three Generations of Women and Their Garden at Wyck through October 2004, highlighting the lives of three generations of Haines women who lived at Wyck in Germantown; Celebrating Women in Art (Nov. 3 and 10, Dec.1 and 8), Philadelphia Museum of Art guided tours given at 11 a.m. highlighting works of art by women among the museum's vast collection.

Now's the time travelgirls. Head to Philly!