The Keys to Florida

By Denise Dube

The Keys, especially Key West, have Harvard Square's village-type character and kitschy shops; New Orleans' party life; and the Caribbean\'92s relaxed attitude \'97 one with a steel drum beat. Life in Key West is laid-back and has never quite left the colorful 1960s or 1970s. Actually, natives say it's always been this way.

"Hey, it's the Keys," is the answer to almost every worry. Everyone is on a first name basis. Life is taken slowly and with a smile. It's contagious and before a day or two passes you get the Key Vibe.

Forgot your bathing suit? No problem, swim in your shorts. "Hey, it's the Keys."

It's an oft-repeated answer to almost everything.

The thin long stretch of Florida's Keys starts about 15 miles south of Miami and continues for about 120 miles. Most of the Keys are connected by bridges, and some are only accessible by boat.

Key West, Islamorada, Marathon, Big Pine Key and Key Largo are the major areas in the long island chain. Each has other Keys under its umbrella, which is a funny description, since you almost never need one.

While they are similar in spirit, each isle has a distinct feel and personality, one that must be experienced. Marathon is the hub and offers easy accessibility to most of the other Keys.

Islamorada, known as the sport fishing capital of the world, catches its share of celebrities and politicians looking for "the big one." Most places are catch and release, however. Cheeca Lodge, a year-round 27-acre resort, offers the best of both worlds. The "Fish Whisperer," is always on staff and will guide or educate anyone who wants to fish off the 525-foot pier. Those who shun hooking gilled swimmers can walk the grounds, play nine holes of golf, enjoy a day at the spa or sit by the pool under a fully stocked white linen tent.

All of Florida's Keys are enticing, but for me, Key West and Islamadora were definitely the most alluring. In fact, over the years, Key West has had its share of characters and Islamadora its share of famous fishermen and women. I was interested in the eclectic and unique shops, Ernest Hemingway's digs, the unique museums and kayaking.

starting in the south

I started at Key West and worked my way up the thin stretch of islands, getting a history lesson, discovering Floribbean food and falling in love with the Keys. It happens to many, which is why there are repeat visitors and more than a few transplants.

Key West's simple retro airport is a fitting starting point. It created a sense of familiarity as I disembarked into the sizzling sunshine. After a visit, you'll spend weeks wondering why it seems so familiar and enticingly special.

You won't see suits and ties, whether you're eating in an upscale restaurant or walking along any street in the Keys. It's not a phase; it's a way of life. As someone who favors casual over chic, this sunny and colorful piece of Florida grabbed my attention.

A quick ride from Key West Airport brought me to the Reach Resort, located only a few blocks from Duval Street, Key West's hub, which is nestled between Whitehead Street and Truman Avenue. Key West, two miles wide and four miles long, is small enough to see almost everything in a few days. At its southern most point, it's only 90 miles from Cuba.

Usually lively by day, at night Duval Street is jammed with people, lights and a vigor that invites you to party, play, laugh and do the "Duval Crawl," stopping at bars and caf\'e9s along the street. The "Duval Crawl" is probably not what brought Harry S. Truman, Ernest Hemingway and Jimmy Buffett there. OK, maybe Jimmy Buffett, and Hemingway surely participated, but Truman was more interested in fishing and politics.

Truman and notable dignitaries and officials held more than a few important meetings at The Little White House on Front Street. Ernest Hemingway wrote most of his work while living in Key West.

Before roaming the streets to seek Hemingway and Truman's digs, I searched for Kino Sandals - a small company on Fitzpatrick Street that makes the most comfortable and inexpensive leather sandals. I'd love to tell you -Buffett-style - that "I blew out my flip flops," but the truth is, I heard about this great shoe factory and wanted to see it - and shop. Smelling of leather and glue, it's a simple factory. While shoemakers worked behind the rudimentary wooden sales counter, I browsed the selection, displayed on every available space. Make this shop a must visit. You won't find any other sandals like these - anywhere.

Along with its fantastic weather, its proximity to the ocean, its eclectic shops, museums, and the incredible food, Key West means Ernest Miller Hemingway, the taciturn yet talented Pulitzer prize-winning writer. Most people know his first American house, a light green solid limestone, was located in Key West on Whitehead Street. He did most of his writing in a second-floor office of a converted carriage house located in the back of the house. He also introduced six-toed polydactyl cats to the island. They have been so prolific they are seen all the way to Islamadora and beyond. Legend says that Hemingway knew a Key West sea captain who owned an unusual six-toed tomcat, one he gave to Hemingway before he left Key West. Today the house is overrun with the six-toed felines. My favorite was Charlie Chaplin - six-toed of course.

One moment I'll savor forever was when the caretaker opened the steel gate that protected Hemingway's office. We were allowed to sit in his chair, touch his desk and typewriter and to roam the room where he worked - I felt a writer's connection to this intensely complicated man. What people don't know is that America's great writer only came to Key West to buy a car. It wasn't ready. The car dealer was embarrassed and offered him the apartment above the dealership at Casa Antigua. He and his wife lived there for a few weeks. That was enough time for him to fall in love with Key West and develop roots. There he wrote A Farewell to Arms. The original apartment is now an empty brick shell with blank balconies. Below there's a plant-filled garden, now used by the Hemingway Society for events.

Another historic stop is Truman's Little White House on Front Street. Be sure and watch the signs, as it's a bit confusing. The house is actually behind the main street. Built in 1890 as a waterfront two-family house for the nearby Naval base, it was converted into a single-family home in 1911 and President William Howard Taft visited in 1912. Truman trumped him, and caused the house to be renamed. He used it for 175 days during his administration. The man just loved to fish. The house, now kept in 1940's Florida-style, has Truman's desk and memorabilia and even the famous sign, "The buck stops here." While there, Truman discussed the Marshall Plan that would help rebuild Europe, he worked on the Truman Doctrine that changed American foreign policy and he recognized Israel as a state. It's well worth a visit. Truman didn't abandon the house after finishing his terms. From 1957 to 1969 he returned five times - probably to fish.

Truman isn't the only president who used the house. John F. Kennedy, Bill Clinton and others have stayed and negotiated a policy or two while there.

While my friends went to the butterfly conservatory, I headed toward an old red brick building for another kind of history lesson. But a phenomenon of sorts happened on the way. My cell phone rang and a friend said, "Look up." The sun was encased in a halo or a circular rainbow. I called the weather service and was told by a meteorologist that it is a rare phenomenon and he'd only seen it once before.

After I stopped seeing spots I walked around the Custom House Museum of Art and History to see life-sized sculptures by American artist, J. Seward Johnson. His work, which can only be described as whimsical and brilliant, was on display inside and outside the museum. Ten times larger than life, two colorful statues, depicting Grant Wood's 1930 American Gothic portrait, stood outside and had beckoned me days before. I wouldn't leave without seeing this museum. Pitchfork in hand, his daughter by his side, both wore serious and intent gazes. The sculptures were so perfect I thought I was looking at an original painting that had come to life. Inside, a life-size statue of Marilyn Monroe was in one room. Johnson created Monroe from the famous photo, where she's smiling and desperately trying to hold her white dress down. Remember the old photo of a nurse kissing a sailor after World War II ended? That was there too.

beyond key west

After Key West I headed for Marathon, Islamadora and Key Largo. In Big Pine Key, Bill Keogh herded us onto his boat and took us to the backcountry for some exercise. We unloaded kayaks and paddled through a narrow swamp filled with mangroves, roots and old growth. Not everyone appreciated the tree crabs or contorting our bodies to avoid huge branches, but I loved every minute and wanted more. After paddling through the swampy inlets we made our way out into the ocean and savored the sunset before heading back to Keogh's homeport behind the No Name Pub. What a way to end a day in any part of the Keys.

In Islamadora I had dinner at Pierre's, one of the finest restaurants in all of the Keys. It was a culinary experience, especially for someone who studies food and probably a bit too much. Dinner was served in the outer balcony and the warm island breezes cooled us as we ate, talked and laughed. Jim Carrey, (filming I Love You Philip Morris) Kevin Costner and other celebrities had eaten there the night before. In fact, it seemed wherever we went we were told "Kevin Costner was here yesterday," or "Kevin Costner just ate at this table." Some of us decided we had inadvertently signed up for the "Follow Kevin Costner" tour.

Cheeca Lodge, in Islamadora, is another sanctuary for the soul. It's known as one of the best resorts in the world - and it's true. I had stayed there for a few days on a previous trip to the Keys and this is where you want to stay to unwind, relax and forget real life. Bicycles are available and give a slow, relaxed view of Islamadora, just keep your strength up for the incline to the bridge. Pedal past the bridge and stop at an ocean-side sanctuary to catch your breath and catch a watery view accented with trees and flowers. One should never visit Cheeca without indulging in a spa treatment. A deep relaxing body massage accented my first visit and left me feeling so relaxed it was an effort just to get back to the locker room. During the last visit a cleansing facial from a soft-spoken woman left my face visibly clearer and noticeably relaxed. Although many a notable fisherman or woman has stayed there, it beckons to those who just want to sit in the cushioned lounging chairs and soak up the sun and the views.

Sunset Key, near Key West, is a separate island owned by Westin Hotels & Resorts. It's only a few minutes away by boat, but you'll think you're in a different world, one filled with cottages, a lush landscape of flowers and grass and an upscale restaurant that serves the best French Brioche anywhere, filled with a sweet berry cream cheese.

Little Palm Island in Little Torch Key was almost surreal. This island, in the middle of nowhere, is developed so precisely that each full-equipped cottage seems to be the only one on there. Trails meander around the island and are the only proof there are other cottages, wooden bridges and Palapa-topped spas. This is the ultimate escape route for anyone looking for five-star anonymity. The saddest event is the leaving, clearly etched on the faces of those waiting for boats to take them to the airport or a waiting car. Who wants to go back to reality when heaven is actually on Little Palm Island?

That's just a smattering of resorts and adventures that await beyond Key West. Maybe it's time you took a break and visited the Keys, too. When you do, sit back and enjoy the laid-back atmosphere. And don't worry, because, "Hey, it's the Keys'"

KEYs 411

Florida Keys Tourism www.fla-keys.com

Homes Away From Home

Reach Resort
Known as a Caribbean paradise, this newly renovated resort has 150 guest rooms (76 are suites), high-speed wireless, and a heated pool that's only a few hundred feet from the resort's private sandy beach. Key West
866-397-6427 www.reachresort.com

Sunset Key
This 27-acre secluded tropical island paradise is a resort and residential community located only 500 yards from historic Old Town Key West. Sunset Key, owned by Westin Hotels, is accessible only by a 10-minute boat ride. Even if you're not staying at one of the fabulous guest cottages, ride over and enjoy the outdoor restaurant.
888-477-7SUN www.sunsetkeyisland.com

Little Palm Island Resort and Spa
Looking for Gilligan's Island with all the amenities? This privately owned and hidden island is so serene, you'll want to live there. Like the Sunset, it's accessible only by seaplane or boat. The rule is, relax and enjoy and there are numerous wooden signs reminding guests to do just that. Every amenity possible is somewhere on this tiny island.
800-343-8567 www.cheeca.com

Tranquility Bay Beach House Resort
In Marathon, this really is the ultimate in luxury and style. Built along the ocean, these deluxe two- and three-bedroom beach houses were made to look like a small village.
Marathon 305-289-0888 www.tranquilitybay.com

Sites and Sounds and Shoes

Kino Sandals and Shoes
Kinos are named after Roberto "Kino" and Margarita Lopez. Kino owned a shoe factory in Cuba and immigrated to America and opened the factory in 1966. The sandals are handmade and contain only leather and natural rubber. Traditional "sandaleros," or old-world sandal makers, create the simple durable and comfortable footwear.
Key West 305-294-5044 www.kinosandalfactory.com

Truman's Little White House
This is a fun history lesson for anyone who enjoys presidential memorabilia and great stories. The guide shares stories of private and crucial meetings that occurred over a pool table at the White House.
Key West 305-294-9911 www.trumanlittlewhitehouse.com

The Ernest Hemingway Home and Museum
Anyone who had to read The Old Man and the Sea or any other Hemingway tome will be compelled to visit his home. I reveled in this experience.
Key West 305-294-1136www.hemingwayhome.com

Key West Butterfly and Nature Conservatory
The glass-contained conservatory allows visitors to enjoy hundreds of the most beautiful butterflies in the state that are shipped from farms to the conservatory.
Key West 305-296-2988 www.keywestbutterfly.com

Green Turtle Inn Restaurant
The best turtle soup in the world is right here. So are a number of other surprises.
Islamadora 305-664-2006 www.greenturtlekeys.com

Pierre's Restaurant
This restaurant's advertisement almost says it all: Fine dining. Caribbean elegance. Unforgettable sunsets. But, there's more. Dine outdoors on exceptional food and watch the sun dip into the water.
Islamorada 305-664-3225 www.pierres-restaurant.com

Kayaking with Bill Keogh
Paradise is a kayak, lots of sunshine, a good paddle and someplace to go. Let Bill Keogh, author of The Florida Keys Paddling Guide take you along the waterways of the Keys.
Big Pine Key 305-872-7474 www.keyskayaktours.com

Key West Museum of Art & History at the Custom House
Key West folk artist Mario Sanchez\'92s colorful wooden paintings hang along the walls and in a few of the more upscale hotels and shops. It was here that, after the sinking of the Maine, the United States decided to go to war with Spain.
Key West 305-295-6616 www.kwahs.com