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LA = Live Amazingly

By Elina Fuhrman

It was a sea of designer-clad women, pouring out of the hottest cars and limos and filling one of the largest mansions in Beverly Hills for a black-tie party, celebrating of all things, the Little Black Dress. A red carpet lining the driveway, paparazzi snapping pictures of celebrity guests, flowing champagne and more incredibly beautiful gals than you'd ever expect in one place except the Oscars, each in their own version of the fete's honoree. But when the announcement was made that Paris Hilton, who was promised to be in attendance couldn't make it, but instead her Chihuahua Tinkerbell would be standing-in for the heiress, modeling a little black dress of her own, I knew I was in LA.

Several weeks later, I am having lunch at another private Beverly Hills event and fashion show, saying "Hello!" to a number of well-known celebrities and cheerfully accepting their compliments on my brand new "little white dress" I had just picked up at Jill Roberts, a chic boutique on Beverly Drive. If that wasn't enough, on meeting the fashion show's producer, I about fell over when he announced (rather loudly) that I was wearing "the dress of the day." Soon I'm posing for "snaps" with Janice Dickinson (star of Oxygen's reality TV show, The Janice Dickinson Modeling Agency), and I''m just laughing at the irony. "How did this happen?" I think to myself, surveying the crowd of perfectly-coiffed women in their much pricier couture.

The truth is anyone can sashay into the celebrity culture and parties that are synonymous with Los Angeles. Forget about buying the proverbial star map or reading gossip rags to find out where they are. The best advice I can offer after spending a considerable amount of time here is this: Just be one yourself, make yourself "red carpet ready," and not only will you feel like a rising star in the City of Angels, but soon you'll be rubbing shoulders with them.

The stuff you can't fake

How a travelgirl feels is more important than how she acts. Anyone can "act the part" in a city that has more former and unemployed actors than New York has cabbies. But you can't fool yourself, right? That's maybe why LA has so many choices when it comes to full-service spas and specialized micro-spas for just about every part of the body and soul.

The Peninsula Hotel's Spa is one of the city's most exclusive and luxurious. No wonder then that its spa menu offers Shiffa gemstone therapy. It's the belief that precious gems are more than just jewelry, they have holistic and medicinal powers. As you might expect, this pampering, which includes a dry brushing of the body, an exfoliation, a body mask, a massage, and a scalp treatment with gem-saturated oils (there is actually some ruby, sapphire, emerald and diamond in those oils!) is a bit expensive, but after two hours of pure bliss, I emerged as a true believer of the gem power on my mind, body and mood. The luxurious precious gem oil treatments are tailored to the aura desired: sapphire for tranquility, ruby for vitality, emerald for strength and diamond for harmony. The Peninsula is one of a handful of spas in the world to offer this luxury imported from Dubai.

But it's not just about the jewels. Glowing blemish-free skin is a high priority throughout LA. That's why celebrities flock to Sonya Dakar's famous "facial boot camp," an invigorating experience that leaves no pore untouched. Gwyneth Paltrow, Cameron Diaz and Drew Barrymore swear by her clinic on Santa Monica Boulevard in Beverly Hills. You can become one of Sonya's clients and experience her magic touch, as she will analyze your diet ("no dairy products!") and exercise routine and prescribe her custom peels full of natural acids and enzymes balanced specifically to your skin. She might also use her signature Diamond Peel and LED Lite Therapy to improve collagen production and naturally reduce wrinkles. If all this sounds like so much science and not much pampering, the A-List clients who visit regularly don't seem to mind. Don't leave without Sonya's Jet Set travel kit, with full-size products to keep your skin in perfect shape even during your two-week jaunts.

With year-round sun and open-toe shoes, perfect toenails and fingernails are a must in Hollywood. Don't let it bother you that Britney Spears paid a recent visit to Hands On, perhaps Beverly Hills' best nail boutique. They don't call it a "mini-facial for your hands and feet" for nothing. Once your tootsies and fingers are soaked, towel steamed and massaged, a state-of-the-art microdermabrasion system is used to exfoliate any dead skin, leaving it baby soft. And for an added lift, the HyperBarOx system infuses pure oxygen into the dermis of your tired feet and hands \'97 wow! And who knows who you'll find hanging out in the clever boutique downstairs waiting their turn at the HyperBarOx?

Or, just up the street, on Wilshire Boulevard, you might be waiting with Mandy Moore, Beyonce and ABC's hit sitcom, Ugly Betty star America Ferrera at a chance to get your brows styled by the Eyebrow King himself. Damone Roberts and his brow divas pluck out of a tiny but plush brow salon in Beverly Hills. You'll be amazed at how rejuvenated and happy you'll look after just one visit with Damone. Some swear he is better than a plastic surgeon; his perfect tweezing can take a decade off your face.

No red carpet ritual is complete without a visit to Nance Mitchell, undoubtedly the A-Listers' best-kept secret, and for good reason. Nance is the waxing queen of all Hollywood! From her residential location, Nance has seen it all, from eyebrows to bikinis and, ahem, more private locations, where she cheerfully removes the most stubborn unwanted hairs. "I can do hearts, teardrops, squares, circles, initials, whatever you want," she says, asking if I am married and what my husband likes. A recent NPR news feature on the business of Hollywood noted how Nance has a client list that is the envy of every agent, producer and talent in town, making sessions with her highly productive, with clients tossing show biz ideas around with her as she waxes and tweezes their private parts.

Sleeping around: getting the rest you'll need

Now that you've begun feeling like the celebrity you are inside, you need an address befitting your star status. One of my favorite places in LA is The Mosaic Hotel, tucked away on one of the side streets off Wilshire Boulevard, yet within walking distance to most Beverly Hills hot spots. The subtlety and understated elegance of this boutique hotel is clearly at odds with the grandiose feel of practically everything in the neighborhood. But once you discover this gem, you will appreciate its quiet and unassuming comfort. The minute you step into the Mosaic's small but stylish lobby, you feel like a houseguest in a private mansion. With just 49 modernist but plush rooms and suites, service is intimate, genuine and very discreet. Every desire is taken care of, including herbal teas at night and clever notes tucked under your pillow. Only on the last night do you get a cookie with your tea and a note: "What's life without a little indulgence, now you've earned it, enjoy! In Beverly Hills we don't deny ourselves anything!" Travelgirls will love the bathroom tray with full-size designer toiletries and a cosmetics-stocked "minibar" in case you forgot something or want to try a new face cream, now that you've arrived. Rooms also come with Frette linens, plush towels, robes, books, CDs and DVDs for enjoying quiet time if you get a chance. Even the pool area feels like a private home, so invite a few of your new best friends to join you for a bite and a swim.

But if you come to LA to party, look no further than The Crescent, a tiny funky Spanish Revival hotel right in the heart of Beverly Hills. Set back from the curb by stucco walls secluding a front patio garden, you quickly realize this hip hotel is party central. The Crescent keeps an upbeat, young music industry clientele slurping Sex Kitten Martinis into the wee hours, so it's not a place for understatement or even restful sleep. But if your plans can allow for sleeping in until noon, there's no better place to join the American Idol generation at play. The sleek concrete-textured open baths in the guest rooms pair well with the pre-loaded iPod minis, flat-screen televisions, and tasty stuff to nosh in the mini-bar.

Looking to marvel in early California pool-and-patio lifestyle? Then the Avalon Hotel is your choice. Lucille Ball and Mae West were once frequent visitors of this landmark, and now it is Reese Witherspoon and Owen Wilson you can spot dining at blue on blue, a trendy poolside restaurant that delivers a retro California dining experience under the stars. It serves an unpretentious "unexpected" cuisine built around freshness, such as wild mushrooms, shaved fennel salad or roasted baby beets with warm goat cheese and fine herbs, hand-picked daily from Chef Gabriel Gabreski's favorite sources at the Santa Monica Farmer's Market. Innovation extends to blue on blue's chic bar, where seasonally-rich pomegranate mojitos are a favorite. Once you are up in your room, you will enjoy the nostalgic feeling of mid-century modern architecture combined with every possible modern luxury.\ For old time glitz and glamour, splurge on a room at The Beverly Hills Hotel and Bungalows. The pink stucco landmark only gets better with age and draws mogul-class clientele every night to its famous Polo Lounge. It should be your next big gig, if only for a late supper served by white-coated gents named Vinny and Marius. Oozing style and caviar on tiny blinis, the Polo underscores the permanence of entertainment's elite. Signing your autograph in the guest registry won't put you on the Walk of Fame, but knowing that Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor have slept here before you sure feels good, as do the individually decorated rooms and suites. Afternoons in sunglasses lunching on lobster salad under the cabanas and awnings that line the intimate pool area feel good, too, especially if you take your pooch along to start conversations. Yes, they love dogs here and even put on a wedding for two of them in the ballroom last year.

Only in LA!

Start your day with gourmet coffee at The Coffee Bean & Tea Leaf at 8789 Sunset Boulevard, in West Hollywood. That's where Perez Hilton writes his daily celebrity gossip blog. He proudly calls it "Hollywood's Most-Hated" website and after a cup of java while perusing the scoop, you might discover why.

Next, get at least an hour with a celebrity trainer at the penthouse Sky Sport & Spa gym. The owner, Jackie Warner, is a reality TV star herself, with the popular Workout show on Bravo. She charges $400 for a workout, but schedule a session with one of her trainers and you will get the same service starting at $75.

Besides getting used to your newfound craving for a personal trainer, you might find the urge to snatch up this year's "IT" bag or just the right pair of oversized sunglasses and skinny jeans, too powerful to resist. With so many chic shopping areas to choose from, you need to mind your time well and focus on high-yield areas.

Without a question, Rodeo Drive is the most famous shopping street in LA, but it is Robertson Boulevard that's making headlines. The uber-cool-must-shop-see-and-be-seen street is the place for the trendiest attire.

Kitson and Lisa Kline are the hottest stores to spot stars and buy something they dig. Kitson is a fave for Paris, Britney and J-Lo. The trendy boutique some locals call "Hollywood's idea of a garage sale" keeps shoppers behind a velvet rope during the store's busiest hours between 1 and 4PM, so those inside have room to browse and pay for their $350 cashmere Hello Kitty pillow or the store's current bestseller, a $38 "Little Miss Trouble" t-shirt. If you come with your little ones, don't forget to cross the street for the Kitson Kids experience. Jessica Simpson and Nicole Richie are just a few fashionistas who flock to Lisa Kline to satisfy their cravings for the lastest trinkets and hard-to-find labels such as Clu, Fremont, Ingwa Melero, and Primp and Johnson. Other stores on the street worth checking out are Chan Luu for accessories, Robert Clergerie for French shoes, Ghost for amazingly feminine and tissue-thin dresses and blouses, and Horn for high-end designer pieces like Chloe and Roberto Cavalli.

When you've had enough of the Boulevard, head to another LA experience - Melrose Avenue, known for young, funky and cutting-edge stores. Think of it as the mix between the Village in New York and the Marais district of Paris. Start at the legendary Fred Segal \'97 a favorite of George Clooney, Winona Ryder and Jennifer Aniston \'97 a mini-mall of sorts with a maze of eclectic boutiques-within, each selling one-of-a-kind brands like Bensoni, Doe and Golden Goose. Then stroll down Melrose and check out unique nostalgia places, trendy shops, jewelry stores, comedy clubs and restaurants.

Stop at my all-time favorite place for lunch, M Caf\'e9 de Chaya, a European-style macrobiotic vegan caf\'e9 that serves the yummiest dishes without refined sugar, eggs, dairy, red meat or poultry. Try the spicy peanut kale, crispy Seitan Katsu Bowl and one of the delicious desserts, and the only thing you will be missing is a sugar rush. But you'll get a different rush when you start chatting with your neighbor, sitting at a table very close to yours, and then recognize her from a movie you just saw.

If you like vintage and antiques, walk down La Brea Avenue and browse through an assortment of eclectic and modern furniture stores. And check out one of the best vintage boutiques, The Way We Wore, which specializes in high-end vintage clothes and accessories from 1900 to 1985. Tens of thousands of couture pieces occupy two floors and it is impossible to walk out without a find. Don't be surprised to bump into Sienna Miller, Gwen Stefani or Kirsten Dunst as you pick through The Way We Wore exclusive confections from Chanel, Pierre Cardin and Valentino, among others. Expressing your true individuality has never been easier!

Don't fret at all the walking you've been doing. After all, LA is supposed to be a driving city, right? Detour through Beverly Boulevard and stroll through the city's most stylish home design shops, like Twentieth, which rents its furniture for movie and TV sets. The pieces are not inexpensive, but if your income has caught up to your modern vision, you might be lounging on a classic Vladimir Kagan chaise that has graced the set of a Hollywood blockbuster in no time.

Recharge at Elixir on Melrose as you head back toward Robertson and spend an hour relaxing in its Asian-inspired Zen garden sanctuary, sipping one of the signature no-sugar added tea drinks. Last time I had my Virtual Buddha tea, "a mood elation tonic" said to be a favorite of Gwyneth Paltrow, Greg Kinnear was sitting on a bench next to mine, meditating on his next movie deal. If the serenity and the tea concoctions put you in the mood, have a tarot card reading or a mini numerology session.

Thanks to a mention on Oprah, the designer cupcake rage was born in Beverly Hills at a snappy little bakery called Sprinkles. With freshly baked flavors (Red Velvet Cake, Pumpkin, Mocha, Black and White) sliding into the glass case as fast as they are made and eaten, throngs of cupcake loyalists don't mind standing in line 20 minutes or more to spend $36 for a dozen. Or maybe it's communing with the other guiltless souls in line with you that keep this joint cooking.

Speaking of cooking, no visit to LA is complete without a dinner at Crustacean, where an entire section of the kitchen is sealed-off to anyone but a member of the An family, in order to protect their coveted whole roasted Dungeness crab and garlic noodle recipes from even the highly talented staff. As well they should. The garlic noodles are so good, you'll ask for an order to go and will eat it the minute you get back to your hotel. No place serves more subtle, yet fragrant and flavorful French-infused Vietnamese dishes than does this Beverly Hills hotspot. With an unforgettable lounge area divided by a glass floored walkway leading to the dining room, huge carp fish swim beneath your toes on your way to the table. Members of the An family are always mingling with the guests, deservedly proud of what their passion for food has rewarded them with since arriving in the United States in the mid-1970s.

Getting away from it all

You say you don't care for shopping and just want to relax? Head to the beaches of Malibu and Santa Monica to soak in the sun, surf and the laid-back California lifestyle LA is known for.

It won't be easy to pick between the understatement of Shutters on the Beach and the old world luxury of Casa del Mar. While differing in style, both create an intensely detailed guest experience. Far from the madding crowd, they are favorite overnight getaways for romantic Angelenos, like Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie, who cherish its breathtaking rooms with panoramic views of Santa Monica Beach and the Pacific. Refined and lovingly outfitted by designer Michael Smith, Shutters' 198 rooms and suites each feel like a private seaside cottage with plenty of books and DVDs at your fingertips, four-poster beds, antique tables, needlepoint pillows, and crisp Italian-made linens and robes to enjoy. It's the perfect place to crash after your sleepless nights partying at the Crescent! Casa del Mar's beat runs toward sunny days on the Italian Riviera and is a favorite with Naomi Watts and Jennifer Anniston; its 129 rooms and suites are brightly decorated with hand-painted furniture and bamboo accented Victorian headboards. Casa del Mar's bathrooms are marble to the max and at Shutters they come equipped with a flat LCD TV. Take your pick!

Wake up to the beautiful California sunrise and begin your morning at Exhale Spa, a peaceful Santa Monica sanctuary. It is one place to get the feeling it takes to slip by just about any velvet rope. Exhale is a sophisticated wellness retreat that offers extensive nutritional and attitude coaching programs that take a total person approach with specialties including oriental medicine treatments like acupuncture and seven-day detoxification and cleansing. Sign up for Core Fusion or Core Energy classes with Elise Gulan and harmonize yourself with the tranquility of Exhale's Zen-inspired studio that overlooks the Pacific. Popular with celebrities like Naomi Watts and Kyra Sedgwick, these affordable classes ($10 on Tuesdays) are truly transformational as they stretch and condition your aching muscles, leaving your mind calm and body sculpted. Plus they make a perfect prelude to a facial, massage, or even a power body-detox treatment that promises to take inches off your problem areas within an hour. (I was quite skeptical, but lost almost 2 inches!)

A short drive up Pacific Coast Highway from Santa Monica takes you to scenic Malibu. The state beach and Malibu Pier will be on your left, but stay on PCH heading towards Pepperdine University, and find Paradise Cove, Oceanside. Well worth the trek, the Paradise Cove Beach Caf\'e9 has its own secluded stretch of beach, fishing pier, and gargantuan portions of steamed mussels and delicious salads built for two. Informal and fun for kids, you can either bring a good appetite or a hungry friend to share - they don't mind. Outdoor tables on the beach fill up fast, and inside gets packed on weekends. Spend some time frolicking on the beach collecting shells and you may bump into Jennifer Aniston walking her pooch.

Then take the winding road over Malibu Canyon inland to the Ventura Freeway and head to the Valley. Do some more shopping at the small but popular neighborhood boutiques right on Ventura Boulevard, between Laurelwood and Laurel Canyon Drive. You might be buying the same pair of denims and a designer top with Desperate Housewife herself, Teri Hatcher at Dari, or Hilary Duff at m. fredric, and you might also spot Katherine McPhee shopping at Tryst or perhaps join Annette Benning for a latte at Peet's Coffee, when you stop to regroup.

End your day on the road devouring sushi at any of Sushi Row's (Laurel Canyon Boulevard to Vineland) fabulous finds, Matsuda, Katsu Ya, Midori or Sushi Dan. You won't find a bad piece of yellow tail any place around here. As a newly-reborn starlet, you'll begin to live like a local here, rubbing elbows at these leading sushi bars, charming the chef, and sipping sake with the "working stiff" writers, agents, producers and stylists behind Hollywood's next blockbuster - you!

la 411

Be Seen:

Jill Roberts boutique
www.jillroberts.com

Peninsula Hotel's Spa
beverlyhills.peninsula.com/pbh/spa.html

Sonya Dakar's facial boot camp
www.sonyadakarskinclinic.com

Hands On nail boutique
www.handsonspa.com

Damone Roberts salon
www.damoneroberts.com

Nance Mitchell salon
www.nancemitchell.com

Sleep Around:
The Mosaic Hotel
www.mosaichotel.com

The Crescent
www.crescentbh.com

Avalon Hotel / blue on blue
www.avalonbeverlyhills.com

Beverly Hills Hotel and Bungalows / Polo Lounge
/www.thebeverlyhillshotel.com