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'tis the season for nashville
story by Kathy Kuczka

The skyline of Nashville, Tennessee

“You will get a sentimental feeling when you hear, Voices singing, “Let’s be jolly, Deck the halls with boughs of holly”

The setting was a Nashville recording studio in 1958. The artist was Brenda Lee and the song, Rockin’ Around the Christmas Tree. Fast forward nearly half a century where the halls aren’t just decked, they’re decked out, inviting visitors to celebrate the yuletide season in the town now called Music City, U.S.A. Maybe it’s the charm of the south around this time of year — warmer than northern temperatures, clear starry nights, or maybe it’s the presence of pure southern hospitality.
In any case, there’s something about being in Nashville around the holidays that feels like home. Nashville captures a nostalgic look at the season: Victorian homes that echo a time when life’s simple joys — being surrounded by loved ones and spirits filled with anticipation — were enough to fill anyone with holiday cheer. The holidays are, after all, about homecoming. This time of year is also when miracles and dreams come to life and Nashville has long been home to such happenings. Many have enjoyed success and fame in Nashville. Countless others have walked behind the lights of stardom, weaving the thread of blues and bluegrass, rhythm and rock, country and classical into the musical fabric of this nation. In Music City, it’s all about the music. But, in Nashville at this time of year, you won’t find any “Blue Christmas.” Whether you’re returning to your roots for the holidays, or spending the season creating new traditions, navigating a getaway to Nashville is sure to boost anybody’s Bah, humbug.

The Opryland Resort at Christmas

Holiday Happenings
Start with a visit to Gaylord Opryland and a holiday celebration, Southern style. The first time I went
to Nashville around the holidays, this was my first stop. My mouth dropped open with childlike excitement at the two million outdoor lights. It was like they were shining a huge “welcome.” And, that’s just on the outside. On the inside, the world-famous Radio City Rockettes are kicking up their heels once again in The Radio City Christmas Spectacular at the home of the Grand Ole Opry. The razzle-dazzle includes scenes like the powerful parade of the wooden soldiers. You can also catch one of today’s hottest country stars, Pam Tillis at the Pam Tillis Christmas Dinner Party from Thanksgiving till Christmas day. You’ll feast on a traditional holiday dinner while the Grammy Award winner sings her favorite holiday tunes and number one hits.

How about a real winter landscape, despite being south of the Mason Dixon? Bring your jacket! ICE! is a display of frozen sculptures carved from 1.5 million pounds of ice. Visitors can do everything from gliding down a 10-foot slide, to walking through a train — all made of ice. Treat yourself by staying at the Opryland Resort! The entire complex covers 47 acres and holds nearly 3,000 rooms; it’s one of the largest hotels this side of the North Pole. It’s worth visiting the hotel just to see the atrium garnished with giant decorations. The first time I stepped inside, I felt like I was immediately transported to a tropical forest. Plan lots of time. You’ll want to take a leisurely stroll through these nine acres, which boast more than ten-thousand species of plants. Or you can view the botanical garden by boat. Flatboats transport travelers through a representation of a town along the Mississippi River delta. Visit one of the many specialty shops, or sit back, enjoy a drink and watch the festive fountain show from the revolving Cascades Terrace Lounge.

The Country Music Hall of Fame

To celebrate the days of Christmas past, head to one of Nashville’s grandest estates and enter a holiday time warp. The Cheekwood Botanical Garden and Museum of Art offers activities for the whole family. Take part in a gingerbread workshop, enjoy a holiday tea and listen to the sounds of Nashville storytelling. This mansion, formerly owned by family members of the inventors of Maxwell House Coffee, offers a jolt of good cheer. Antique instruments and vintage carolers virtually come to life. A gorgeous tree decorated with ornaments by Nashville musicians fills the rotunda. Outside the house, 55 acres of gardens threaded with tranquil ponds and streams look like a painted picture against the backdrop of breathtaking views of the rolling hills of Tennessee.

Celebrate the season “Victorian Style” at the
Belle Meade Plantation about seven miles from downtown Nashville. Horse lovers will relish the chance to see this former thoroughbred farm brought into equestrian fame by Confederate cavalry officer General W. H. Jackson. Belle Meade was home to Iroquois, the first American Bred horse to win the English Derby. The 30-acre site houses a Greek Revival Mansion and eight other historic buildings, including a turn-of-the-century carriage house that features one of the South’s largest collections of antique carriages. From mid-November until the first of January, the mansion is adorned in festive décor. Groups of 15 or more can hearken back to old English times and enjoy a special Holiday Wassail Tour — where after the tour, the group gathers to enjoy wassail — a drink filled with holiday spices made especially to warm up the season. It’s perfect for a toast to future health and prosperity.

The botanical gardens by boat at Opryland


Year-round Attractions:
Nashville Music, Art & History

No matter what time of year you visit Nashville, you’ll know why its nickname is Music City, U.S.A. Music and musicians abound in this southern city. Synonymous with country music, Nashville is ever diversifying its sound and is known the world over for playing a starring role in America’s musical history. Travelgirls looking to trace the roots of country music might want to begin by heading downtown to the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum. This museum is to country music what the Smithsonian is to history. It pays musical tribute both inside and out. When viewed from the air, it looks like a giant bass clef, while the front windows resemble piano keys. Visitors can take a self-guided tour through two of the museum floors. Exhibits tell the story of country music from its start up days as folk music in the British Isles. Among the 800,000 artifacts: Guitars played by stars like Gene Autrey and Garth Brooks, a cowgirl dress owned by Patsy Cline, Elvis Presley’s 1960 Cadillac Fleetwood 75 limousine, and Trisha Yearwood’s employment application. Yearwood applied to work at the museum five years before her first single, She’s in Love with the Boy, hit No.1. And, speaking of No. 1 records, there are walls filled with every country-related album ever to hit gold or platinum in the 20th century. Several of the records are interactive, allowing visitors to play one of the album’s hit songs.

Fans of the TV series Hee Haw can visit its famous “kornfield” set, complete with costumes worn by the series’ famed characters. The museum also hosts temporary exhibits. Right now visitors will find layouts from the lives of Hank Snow, Ray Price and Ray Charles. But the most awe-inspiring sight is the final stop on the tour: The Hall of Fame Rotunda where plaques pay homage to country music’s most celebrated men and women. Now that you’ve seen the instruments of your favorite country music stars, you can see where they were played in Nashville’s oldest surviving recording studio: Studio B. Located near the Country Music Hall of Fame, daily tours of the studio depart from the museum. This studio recorded hits like Roy Orbison’s Only the Lonely and Elvis Presley’s It’s Now or Never and Rock Around the Clock. Rock around this studio — restored to its vintage look — and you can almost hear some of the most famous voices ever to come out of Nashville. You’ll even catch a glimpse of Elvis — when he was still a blond!

The Country Music Hall of Fame

No visit down musical memory lane would be complete without a stop at the historic Ryman Auditorium. Originally built as a church before the turn of the 20th century, the Ryman became one of the premier performance centers, hosting greats from Sergei Rachmaninov to Will Rogers to R.E.M. The Grand Ole Opry’s stint at the Ryman from 1943-1974 earned it the title “Mother Church of Country Music.” During November and December, the Grand Ole Opry (the country’s longest-running continuous radio show) returns here to broadcast from its former home while the Rockettes occupy the Opry’s current home at Gaylord Opryland.

Nashville is not just a mecca for wanna-be singers; it’s also a magnet for songwriters. The best can be found singing their lyrics at the famous Bluebird Café. This music club started out as a restaurant in the early 1980s until it began “Sunday writers’ nights,” giving new writers a chance to perform before a guest writer. Before he hit the big time, Garth Brooks was one of the performers at the Bluebird’s open mic. These days, the Bluebird offers live music every night of the week. Its small size creates a feel that’s cozy and intimate. Patrons practically sit next to the performers! Performers often sit in the round, singing songs they’ve written for famous names like Reba McEntire and Tim McGraw. Reservations for weekday shows other than Sunday and Monday evenings can be made up to a week in advance and on Mondays prior to a weekend show. The no-smoking, no-talking during performances rule at the Bluebird makes it a pleasant room to listen to the hottest sounds of today and tomorrow.

If country isn’t king in your book, but classical music turns you on, you’ll want to check out the city’s brand new concert hall, the
Schermerhorn Symphony Center. The Center just opened in September and was built to house the Nashville Symphony. Named after Kenneth Schermerhorn, the Symphony’s late music director, it is a 197,000 square-foot acoustical wonder inspired by neo-classical architecture. The main concert hall seats more than 1,800 people including some behind the orchestra — offering patrons a rare front seat look at the conductor’s most passionate moments. Pops and special events concerts will be heard and seen cabaret-style as movable seats make way for a flat hardwood floor adorned with tables and chairs. Art lovers will want to make a stop at the Frist Center for the Visual Arts. The building is Nashville’s former main post office, now on the National Register of Historic Places. The combination of Art Deco and Classicism architecture provides a perfect sanctuary to house rolling exhibitions. On display now: Bedazzled: 5000 Years of Jewelry from the Walters Art Museum, and Bob Trotman: Model Citizens, seven carved and painted wood sculptures.

An art in its own rite, the Hatch Show Print is one of America’s oldest working letterpress poster print shops. Who needs digital when you can use letterpress? From Vaudeville to minstrel shows to B.B. King and Willie Nelson, the colorful posters made here have become a favorite form of advertising. Each print is individually handcrafted by inking hand-carved wooden blocks, metal photo plates and type, and then pressing to paper to create an image. There are no formal tours, but the shop gets more than 20,000 visitors each year. Located in the heart of downtown, it’s a Nashville landmark.

One of the most famous sites in Nashville belonged to that of the nation’s seventh President, Andrew Jackson. At The Hermitage, travelers can enjoy stories about the Jackson family told by guides in period costume. Several family heirlooms remain, along with original slave cabins and several other buildings from the 19th century. Tourists can visit the President’s tomb, as well as the family cemetery.

For all its glory, Nashville remains a rather humble city. The hundreds of thousands of musicians who know dream and disappointment have formed quite a community here — one that welcomes newcomers and is ever anxious to share its talent. Spend time appreciating the history of the area, especially the historical journey of music. Then, experience the diversity of what’s happening today by listening to live music. There are likely as many or more opportunities to hear live music any night of the week in Nashville than in any other U.S. city. As you take in the ambience that is the essence of Nashville, you too will become part of the history of music making, as songwriters, both famous and unknown, share their hearts and souls.

dining 411 in music city

Before taking in a show at the Ryman, check out Jack’s World Famous Bar-B-Que for some Tennessee Pork Shoulder, Texas Beef Brisket and Kansas City Style Pork Ribs. Two locations: 416 Broadway, and 334 W. Trinity Lane

The South meets the Tropics at Cabana, where diners choose the seating that fits their eating style: a booth, a couch, or even a private cabana complete with pillows and flat screen televisions! Where else could you find a dish called a Tennessee “Slider”? That’s a mini sweet potato biscuit with homemade peach preserves and Smoky Mountain Country ham. Organic free-range chicken and Tennessee Rainbow Trout are local favorites at this restaurant in Hillsboro Village. 1910 Belcourt Avenue

For a mostly Asian experience, mosey on over to Mambu. Fun and funky surround a variety of incredible edibles such as the Gyoz Shrimp Dumplings or the Korean BBQ Beef Bowl. 1806 Hayes Street

In historic Germantown The Mad Platter engages appetites with Butternut Squash Ravioli and what they deem “Nashville’s Best Reuben.” 1239 Sixth Avenue North

For an artistic dining experience, visit Rumors Wine and Art Bar. This art gallery/restaurant will
satisfy the artful soul, as well as the appetite. Dishes like the Artrageous Salad and the Roasted Red Pepper & Goat Cheese Fritatta are paired on the menu with choice wines. In between dinner and dessert, visit the art gallery next door. 2304 12th Avenue South

If high tea is on your ideal itinerary, sip slowly at The Hermitage Hotel. This historic Nashville lodge offers assorted finger sandwiches and freshly baked scones along with fine flavored teas like Peaches & Ginger and Apricot.
231 Sixth Avenue North

more music city 411

Nashville Convention and Visitors Bureau
www.musiccityusa.com
800-657-6910

Opryland Hotel
www.gaylordhotels.com
1-866-972-OPRY

The Hermitage Hotel
www.thehermitagehotel.com
888-888-9414

Cheekwood Botanical Garden and Museum of Art
www.cheekwood.org
615-356-8000

Belle Meade Plantation
www.bellemeadeplantation.com
615-356-0501

Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum
www.countrymusichalloffame.com
615-416-2001
Ryman Auditorium
www.ryman.com
615-458-8700

The Bluebird Café
www.bluebirdcafe.com
615-383-1461

Schermerhorn Symphony Center
www.nashvillesymphony.org
615-687-6500

The Hermitage
www.thehermitage.com
615-889-2941

The Frist Center
www.fristcenter.org
615-244-3340

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