Beyond the beads, booze and bourbon street traditional ways to laissez les bons temps roulez

by Shannon Hurd

Hungry for history? Romance? Shopping? How about just plain hungry? The city of New Orleans may sit below sea level, but it's over the top when it comes to visitor satisfaction in all these areas, and then some. The spotlight hits when Mardi Gras happens, but the fun-loving spirit of the Big Easy is a year-round guarantee in this Louisiana gem. There are traditions for the tastebuds, such as beignets at Cafe Du Monde and a Hurricane at Pat O'Brien's. But you'd be missing out if you didn't delve into some Cajun seasoning, served with a heaping plate of crawfish or maybe a bite of alligator. A quick office poll at travelgirl found New Orleans high on the list of favorite domestic destinations. To get a fresh perspective, we assigned this story to a travelgirl who was a virgin to The Big Easy- just to remind us what the first time was like.

I'd never been to New Orleans before, so I had no idea what to expect. Imagine my shock when the first three stories I heard about life in The Big Easy were as follows:

Guy sitting next to me on the plane: "In the French Quarter around 5am, I saw a guy making out with his Chihuahua, so I said, "Dude, that's gross! You're kissing a dog!'Then he glared at me through his bloodshot eyes, and started growling and barking like he was a dog!" Woman standing by baggage claim: "Passing by an old house, I once saw some kids standing in the doorway with a big pile of wallets, clearly splitting up the take from a night of pick-pocketing." Cab driver on the way to my hotel: "Every morning at 5:30, I see a clown, wearing full makeup and a wig, stumbling down the street with an expensive leather briefcase and a bottle of whiskey, as though he were going to work."

Kissing dogs? Drunk clowns? Pickpockets? What in the world have I gotten myself into?! I thought apprehensively, stepping into the picturesque lobby of the Bourbon Orleans hotel. During the past few weeks, I'd done enough research to know that New Orleans (pronounced noo AW-lins, NOT new or-leens, by locals) was well-known for its rowdy partying and somewhat lax morals. What I didn't know - but would soon find out - was that the Crescent City also has a much kinder, gentler side.

"New Orleans is definitely so much more than booze, beads and Bourbon Street," confirms Angela Day, public relations director for the New Orleans Metropolitan Convention and Visitors Bureau. "It's also a charming, cosmopolitan city rich with history, architecture and a unique culture."

As for the drunken debauchery? It definitely exists, especially during a little February "celebration of life" you may have heard of called Mardi Gras. The thing to remember when visiting New Orleans is to "leave your Puritan ethic at home," advises Steve Waterhouse, a Florida-based sales expert who travels to the Crescent City frequently on business. "Don't compare this placeto the streets of Boston or San Francisco. You're in New Orleans, and you need to experience it as such."

And that's the great thing about experiencing New Orleans, for the first time or the fiftieth: You have so many options, from strolling amidst the beautiful scenery at the Oak Valley Plantation, to taking an evening steamboat jazz cruise, to feasting on authentic Louisiana cuisine, to browsing in a specialty antique shop that sells European chandeliers.

Here are 26 ways to start the good times rolling-

Audubon Aquarium of the Americas
Rated as one of the top five aquariums in the nation, this spectacular one-million-gallon exhibit showcases more than 10,000 animals, from the upside-down jellyfish to the 10-foot-long shark. However, what makes Audubon really special are its numerous interactive features. Visitors can participate in a daily penguin feeding, walk through the Caribbean Reef Tunnel or, if they're really brave, pet a baby shark in the touch pool!

Bourbon Orleans
This Wyndham Historic Hotel, which recently underwent an extensive $15 million renovation, is a must-stay because of its prime location (in the heart of the French Quarter), rich history (the Orleans ballroom was the setting for some of the most select affairs of the 19th century) and highly personalized style of hospitality (by joining the free Wyndham by Request program, guests are treated to a room that has been completely tailored to their individual preferences). The prices are reasonable, too - approximately $150 for a standard and $300 for a suite, depending on the time of year. If it's a good night's sleep you're after, request a room on the hotel's interior. For taking in the New Orleans scene, the exterior rooms are where it's at, with their large balconies overlooking "party street." Unfortunately, you won't think it's so cool at 3am when you can't sleep because, despite your best attempts to drown out the noise with a fan, shouts of "Drink! Drink! Drink!" keep drifting through your window. Other hotels to consider: Le Pavillon, the Maison Depuy and the Lafayette. If you're celebrating a special occasion, the elegant and award-winning Windsor Court Hotel is divine, with packages dedicated to romance, gastronomy, spa relaxation and tea and tranquility.

Cafe Du Monde
I love the fact that, in New Orleans, you see lots of women hanging out by themselves in restaurants and coffee shops," says Elaine Daniloff, a Denver-based medical researcher who visits the City That Care Forgot annually with her sister for Jazz Fest (see "J" for an explanation). "It's awesome that they feel safe and socially acceptable doing that." Her venue of choice? The original Cafe Du Monde, established in 1862, whose cafe au laits and square French-style doughnuts (beignets) have been dubbed the best snack in New Orleans. Moral of the story: TRY SOME! The Cafe is also a great place for people watching.

D-Day Museum
You'll need at least two hours to make your way through the nation's only museum dedicated to the Allied victory at Normandy. Here you'll find a variety of World War II artifacts, historical accounts and photographs, as well as hands-on activities and never-before-seen film footage. Another option: The New Orleans Museum of Art, which houses an impressive $200 million collection spread out over 46 galleries.

Extremely important rules every visitor must know for Mardi Gras
1. One reason beads are given to women: because the person who gave them to you wants to be flashed. But wants are often different from reality. Sometimes, flashing a smile works too.
2. New Orleans locals have what they call a "bead hierarchy": The bigger and thicker the beads around your neck, the better (or the more you did to get them).
3. Do NOT, under any circumstances, wear a feather boa. This screams "drunk!" or "tourist!"

French Quarter (a.k.a. Vieux Carre, which literally means "old square")\ This 6 by 13-block radius of narrow streets and historic houses is one of the premier tourist destinations in the world, where you can find anything from dining, shopping and nightlife to haunted tours, streetcars and outdoor performers. Most of the attractions on this list are located in the French Quarter. Check out the historic Preservation Hall for outstanding nightly jazz concerts and the Farmers'Market, an open-air emporium where a variety of local fruits and vegetables are sold. You should know: New Orleans is often referred to as a "checkerboard city," meaning that safe neighborhoods are located within blocks of unsafe ones. Ask your hotel concierge about specific areas to avoid.

Gospel Brunch at the House of Blues.
It's delicious with a capital "D"! For $35, you're treated to an all-you-can-eat smorgasbord of authentic New Orleans favorites: Chicken jambalaya! Cheddar cheese grits! White chocolate bread pudding with bourbon sauce! The food is mouthwatering, but the entertainment - in the form of a live gospel performance that will erase any guilt you have about missing your weekly church service - is even better. RESERVATIONS ARE ABSOLUTELY ESSENTIAL! The frequently sold-out brunch only takes place on Sundays, and has two seatings: 9:30am and 11:45am.

Harrah's
Like gambling? This 100,000-square-foot casino, located in the heart of downtown New Orleans, is, without a doubt, the best in Louisiana! Featuring live jazz entertainment, thousands of slots and 100 fast-paced table games, Harrah's is the place to go when you're feelin'lucky. travelgirl tip: Go to the bank beforehand. That $4 ATM fee is better spent on the blackjack table!

If you only have time for one "tourist" activity- Ghost Tour! Seriously! These things are awesome! Here's the deal: You pay approximately $20 and spend two hours walking around the French Quarter in a small group after sundown while an award-winning guide tells you spine-tingling ghost stories about the haunted, historic buildings surrounding you. My favorites were a gruesome account of events in the LaLaurie mansion and a tragic tale of forbidden love between a wealthy middle-aged master and his teenage slave girl. Our guide insisted that out-of-towners are frequently haunted by ghosts while on tour. This didn't happen to me, but the anticipation that it could added a dose of anxiety!

Jazz Fest
More than a half million people turn up annually for this 11-day cultural feast designed to celebrate the indigenous music and traditions of New Orleans. It's divided into two components: the Louisiana Heritage Fair, which showcases a cornucopia of music, authentic Louisiana cuisine and worldwide artisans; and the Evening Concert Series, typically held over the course of two weekends in late April or early May. At Jazz Fest, you'll hear everything from rap, R&B and gospel to folk, Latin, country and, of course, jazz. travelgirl tip: MAKE HOTEL RESERVATIONS EARLY! Rooms sell out so fast that many Fest-goers book their rooms up to a year in advance.

Karaoke They say people are more likely to try new things on vacation. If you care to belt out a tune or two, the Cat's Meow is the place to be! Located in the heart of the French Quarter on Bourbon Street, this trendy nightclub features a progressive mix of '50s, classic rock, disco, hip-hop, swing and Top 40. It's also adding to New Orleans'modern history: Software mogul Bill Gates once stopped by to sing, and MTV's Road Rules has broadcast live from here! The good: Three-for-one drinks during happy hour; FREE karaoke that's open to everyone! The bad: It's extremely crowded (read: hot and sweaty), making it hard to shake your groove thing on the dance floor. The ugly: Some people should not sing in public, particularly after they've had a few drinks!

Louisiana Superdome
Since its inception in 1975, the 13-acre Superdome has hosted six Super Bowls, three Final Fours and more Saints games, Sugar Bowls, concerts, trade shows and special events than you can count. (Translation: this place is crawling with hot, single men!) If you happen to wind up at the "Crown Jewel of the New Orleans Skyline" for a football game (and I definitely recommend it, even if you're not a huge sports fan), try this joke to bond with the locals: "What do the New Orleans Saints and possums have in common?" (Answer: Both play dead and get killed on the road.) New Orleans fans love to poke fun at their hometown team, who, after finishing 8-8 in 2004, failed to make the playoffs for the fourth year in a row.

Mardi Gras!
French for "Fat Tuesday," it's New Orleans'most famous celebration, complete with extravagant parades, outrageous costumes and masquerade balls. It never occurs on the same date each year (in 2006, it'll be Feb. 28; in 2007, Feb. 20; and 2008, Feb. 5), but insiders say you can always increase your chances of catching a Mardi Gras throw during a parade by holding up a sign saying where you're from, a la The Today Show. Riders love to see out-of-towners have a good time! And if you want to be more than an innocent bystander and have the cash to make a serious commitment to fun, see our sidebar on how you can actually ride on one of the famous floats.

New Orleans Cemetery Tours
New Orleans rests, on average, eight feet below sea level, so you can't bury people underground. If you did, the graves would fill with water and the caskets would literally float. To remedy this, everybody is buried above ground, creating what the locals have nicknamed "cities of the dead." It's one thing to catch a glimpse of the stony white tombs - and it's quite another to take a walking cemetery tour and actually learn about the fascinating people and histories behind the graves. One to scope out: Voodoo Queen Marie Laveau's tomb is in St. Louis Cemetery No. 1. Check with the Convention and Visitors Bureau for graveyard guides to try: www.neworleanscvb.com.

Oldest continuously active Roman Catholic Cathedral in the United States The St. Louis Cathedral is located in Jackson Square, and there's just one word to describe its architecture: beautiful! Stop in between 9am and 5pm for a free tour describing the Cathedral's fascinating history. Did you know Andrew Jackson laid his sword on the altar following his victory against the British in the Battle of New Orleans in 1815? If you like, stay for mass. Mass times: Every day at 7:30am; Tuesday and Thursday at 5pm; Sunday at 9am, 10am and noon.

Pat O'Brien's
Ask any New Orleans native where the hot spot for Hurricanes is, and the answer is sure to be Pat O's. This world-famous establishment is divided into not one, not two, but six separate bar areas, each with a unique theme. Watch the game with locals in the main bar. Sing along with a variety of first-class entertainers in the piano bar. Take pictures outside by the patio bar's flaming fountain. Enjoy an authentic Louisiana meal at Pat O's courtside restaurant and bar or host a private party in the Briars Suite or Pat O's on the River. Regardless of where you go, you must order a Hurricane! Served in a 26-ounce souvenir glass, this fruity red concoction, which combines rum with several tropical juices called Hurricane Mix, is the signature drink of Pat O's.

Quarter Classic
If you're in the Vieux Carre Nov. 3-6, 2005, STAY OFF THE ROADS! The sixth annual French Quarter Classic will be going on, and the normally peaceful streets will be besieged with more than 100 extremely fast, tremendously loud Ferraris! "It creates an excitement you'll never get any other day of your life," promises professional driver Roland Linder of the event, which combines celebrity drivers and chefs to provide an unparalleled driving experience punctuated by five-star New Orleans cuisine. "It opens a window into a whole other world because most people have no clue what these cars can do," says Linder, who last year, got his $1 million F40 LM Ferrari up to 205 mph on the freeway! Now where else are you going to see that?

Riverwalk
This fabulous shopping destination is comprised of more than 140 stores, restaurants and services, including big names like Bebe and Victoria's Secret, as well as local artists and vendors. Magazine Street is a six-mile stretch of one-of-a-kind antique stores, art galleries and designers. The Shops at Canal Place, New Orleans'most exclusive shopping destination, is home to many elite stores, such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Gucci and Brooks Brothers. BONUS! Louisiana is the only state that provides tax-free shopping for international visitors! For details visit: www.louisianataxfree.com.

Swamp Tours
The brochures practically guarantee you'll see an alligator! Generally two hours long, these nature escapades are best taken in the spring or summer months when the gators are out absorbing the Louisiana sunshine. As you float among the cypress trees, you'll hear stories about the nutria, a pesky 14-inch-long rodent that's eating up Louisiana's coastline. An adult ticket runs about $40; kids are less.

Top restaurants
In a city that celebrates fine dining as an art form, there are more than 3,000 delicious eating establishments. Eight faves:
Bella Luna: Consistently named New Orleans'most romantic restaurant. Brennans: Breakfast here, complete with scrumptious bananas foster for dessert, is a favorite tradition.
Cajun Cabin: Excellent red beans and rice, as well as the best Zydeco band in New Orleans.
Central Grocery: Sells the "original" muffaletta, New Orleans'signature sandwich, served on an enormous seeded Italian loaf and slathered with olive relish, Italian meat and cheeses.
Commander's Palace: Hands down the best Creole cooking in Louisiana
Court of Two Sisters: Known for its world-famous daily live jazz buffet.
Jax Brewery: A good sampling of local cuisine on the third floor.
Mike Anderson's: Where seafood is the star attraction.

Unmatched running trails
"There's nothing more beautiful than jogging alongside the streetcars that run through the center of New Orleans," says business traveler Steve Waterhouse, who did just that and "didn't even come close" to reaching the end after two miles. "Between this and the levee behind the Hilton, which most people don't even know about, this is one of the best running cities in the nation."

Voodoo \\ voo doo \\\ 1.[n] a charm superstitiously believed to embody magical powers
2.[n] a religious cult that involves witchcraft and animistic deities
3.[v]to bewitch with a Voodoo spell

Voodoo flourished in New Orleans in the 1800s, when public ceremonies were held every Sunday in Congo Square. Today, this ancient religion still exists in the Crescent City, as evidenced by recent ceremonies held to protect the city from the deadly Gulf Coast hurricanes. Shops everywhere sell oils, candles and Voodoo dolls, and every October, approximately 70,000 people turn out for the Voodoo Music Experience, which combines big-name musical artists with various Voodoo rituals. Visit the Voodoo Spiritual Temple (828 North Rampart St.), which is the only formally established spiritual temple in New Orleans, focusing on traditional West African spiritual and herbal healing practices. Not only can you buy a variety of Voodoo memorabilia here, but the cultural center next door also performs consultations, African bone readings and weddings (let me tell you, those quickie drive-thrus in Vegas don't hold a candle to a Voodoo ceremony!)

Walking Garden District Tour
"These mansions stand in the center of large grounds and rise, garlanded with roses, out of the midst of swelling masses of shining green foliage and many-colored blossoms. No houses could well be in better harmony with their surroundings, or more pleasing to the eye." - Mark Twain, describing the Garden District.
For just $20 and two hours of your time, you too can experience the splendor of one of the best-preserved collections of historic mansions in the South. Sure, it's possible to stroll along solo and absorb the quiet beauty of this remarkable neighborhood (be sure to pick up an area map if you do!). However, the guided tour, where you'll learn which mansion was once home to bestselling author Anne Rice, and which mansion Confederate President Jefferson Davis died in, adds a much-needed informative touch to the experience.

X-rated
On the wild side- there are strip clubs for everyone in the French Quarter! Locals are very casual about their presence and are happy to recommend their favorites: Scarlett's or Rick's Cabaret for traditional dancing; Colette, if you're looking for a discreet, upscale couples club; and Oz if you want a "really fun" gay bar!

You can pamper yourself
Angela Day from the visitors bureau notes this is a growing trend, as New Orleans has recently seen a proliferation of fabulous day spas. Among the best? Belladonna or Spa Isbell on Magazine Street, The Spa at The Ritz-Carlton and the Garden District's Pantheon.

Zoo Like its sister attraction, the aquarium, the Audubon Zoo is consistently rated among the nation's best. In addition to a comprehensive worldwide safari and a 1,500-specimen animal list, there are a variety of educational presentations, narrated feedings, and entertaining shows. Bring along a comfortable pair of walking shoes and your umbrella - actually, those are good items to have no matter where you go in New Orleans. An average of 57 inches of rain falls annually in this pedestrian friendly city!

Parade How-To
The Krewe of Muses is one way to go "afloat" during Mardi Gras. Along with the usual toss "ems, this "girls only" parade breaks the traditional mold and throws out glitter-covered shoes. Yes, sassy stilettos covered in bling bling and pumped up pumps shining in gold! Each year this five-year-old organization selects an honorary muse to lead their 25-float nighttime extravaganza. This year, Charmaine Neville of The Big Easy's legendary musical Neville family hosted this display of girl power. She played the role of "Euterpe," the Muse of Music and Flutes.

Music, shoes and feminine mystique in an evening ritual - what more could a travelgirl ask for?

The honorary muse highlights the Krewe's support of a host of charities. Last year, the organization gave out more than $25,000 to local organizations dedicated to the arts, women and children.

Once your name gets to the top of the wait list, the cost to ride is a bargain compared to some of the Krewes. A riding membership will run you about $700. Add to that the cost of the initiation fee and the throws, and you'll have spent about $1,500.

Next year's parade is on February 22, around 7pm. To join in the fun, contact the Muses at www.kreweofmuses.org.

When in New Orleans- talk like the locals do!
Alligator pear: an avocado
Banquette: a sidewalk
Cajun:
1) a French Acadian settler
2) a cooking style that combines flavors from many cultures
3) a unique French dialect
Camelback: a one-story house whose back half has been made into a second story
Creole:
1) New Orleans'French and Spanish descendants
2) a cooking style characterized by tongue-tingling spiciness
Downtown, Uptown, Lakeside, Riverside: natives use these terms when giving directions instead of north, south, east or west.
Dressed: a sandwich with "the works"
Fixin to: about to
Go-cup: an open plastic cup of alcohol on the street
Gris gris bag: a small pouch filled with herbs that's believed to bring about a desired result for its recipient
Gumbo: a thick, rice-based soup with many variations (i.e. shrimp gumbo)
Jambalaya: popular New Orleans dish comprised of rice, tomatoes, ham, shrimp, sausage, chicken, celery, onion and spices
Lagniappe: a little something extra
Makin'groceries: buying groceries
Neutral ground: a median
Praline: sweet candy made with butter, sugar and pecans
Throws: trinkets, such as beads and cups that are tossed to the crowds during Mardi Gras parades
Vignette: a sketch or illustration of a person, place or thing
Yat: standard greeting i.e. "Where yat?"

new orleans nicknames:
The Big Easy or The City That Care Forgot: refers to New Orleans'carefree, lackadaisical pace of life, especially when compared to the Northeast's no-nonsense, hurry-up tempo
Crescent City : given because the Mississippi River flows in a crescent shape around the city
The Birthplace of Jazz: self-explanatory
City of Saints and Sinners :a clever play on words, referencing both famous figures from New Orleans'past and the city's professional football team, the New Orleans Saints