what’s a travelgirl to do in...
rio de janeiro?
by Elina Fuhrman
IT IS ALWAYS SUNNY IN RIO. EVEN WHEN THE CLOUDS GATHER AND RAIN COVERS THE DUSTY STREETS, IT DOESN’T STOP CARIOCAS (Rio natives) FROM HAVING FUN. Blame it on samba, the sun or bossa nova — it’s impossible not to fall under the spell of this vibrant city, full of color, beautiful tan lines and faces full of joy, laughter and abandon. Feeling the warmth and frenetic energy penetrating your body as it takes up the rhythms of the Carioca is invigorating.
But that’s not the only reason to head for the future Olympic host city. Now is the time to explore Cidade Maravilhosa (“the Marvelous City”). Rio is hip and hopping, full of chic places to shop and eat, sunbathe all day and samba all night. High-spirited and full of life, the locals have come to better terms with tourists since the 1990s, when petty crimes and beachfront gangs often ruined the fun. But before buying your ticket to Rio, you should know that it’s the kind of international hotspot where status still counts, where the fashionably dressed get noticed and where knowing the right people opens doors. As with any metropolis of 11 million inhabitants, keeping your wits about you makes good common sense. But hey savvy travelgirl: kicking back, blending in and enjoying it all is easier than you might imagine.
An itinerary is quickly filled, but the main attraction here is the people. Rich and poor, young and old, tweens and teens, entrepreneurs from Sao Paulo and mothers from favelas (slums), Africans, Italians, Germans and even Americans, all out to enjoy the sea and then, perhaps, an espresso (freely flowing at just about every store and hotel in the city) or a caipirinha, the Mojito-esque Brazilian drink made with lime, raw sugar and Cachaça. For all Rio’s laid-back allure, it’s got manners and
old-school grace.
As you would expect, Cariocas are very body conscious and love to exercise — and judging by the size of their swimsuits you can understand why. But you won’t find people on treadmills at the gym; their workouts happen on the streets day and night. Rio’s main streets, Avenue Vieira Souto and Avenue Atlantica, follow the length of the two main beaches.
As you would expect, Cariocas are very body conscious and love to exercise — and judging by the size of their swimsuits you can understand why. But you won’t find people on treadmills at the gym; their workouts happen on the streets day and night. Rio’s main streets, Avenue Vieira Souto and Avenue Atlantica, follow the length of the three main beaches. During the day, they sport a wide pedestrian lane for walkers, joggers and cyclists. Here you’ll see some of the fittest bodies in town. After the sun sets, locals gather at Ipanema Beach for a workout at outdoor gyms; the svelte compare tans and pump iron as the sun sets. And when night falls, everyone heads to samba schools to dance to the beat of the many Brazilian rhythms.
Not surprisingly, time is a funny thing here. Being a half-hour late to meet friends is considered “on time.” Dinner is served late in the evening and morning start times are pushed back to sleep in. The secret to loving Rio is falling into the groove and letting the Carioca in you out. Not only is “going native” the best way to ward off anyone who might be hunting for easy tourist prey, but I found it can also lead to discovering many amazing people who call Rio home — and who showed me slices of their culture I would have never experienced otherwise. Rio’s power of seduction left me with a case of what locals call saudade or indescribable longing, and a desire to return to this city very soon.
the “do” list:
> Christ the Redeemer is Rio’s most familiar icon, making it impossible to skip the breathtaking views from the train ride through the Tijuca National Forest up Corcovado Hill to touch the base of the 98-foot concrete statue. If it’s not on your “bucket list,” consider that it was recently named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.
> Sugar Loaf Mountain is another vantage point high above Rio that will thrill your heart, because getting there via aerial cable cars is half the fun, complete with 360-degree views of the beaches and the city. You cross the sky twice (there’s a lush park with restaurants and souvenirs in between) before you arrive atop the granite Sugar Loaf itself. Visit early in the day, and you might find yourself standing above the clouds until the temperature rises and the city unfolds magically below.
>There are more than two dozen samba schools and clubs throughout Rio, but only 12 compete annually in “Samba Central,” the Sambadrome. My first night samba dancing at Salgueiro Samba School was a near-religious experience. Every night, a wave of humanity sways to the rhythm of drum beats well into the wee hours, revving up for Rio’s world-famous Carnival.
> H. Stern isn’t among the New Seven Wonders of the World, but it might be eighth to a travelgirl. The world famous jeweler and goldsmith is based in Ipanema. Besides touring its workshops, salivating over the outstanding collection of gemstones and getting a sneak-peek at inventive new designs, I couldn’t resist the idea of a jewel therapy facial treatment in H. Stern’s own L’Occitaine spa.
> Built in 1950 for the World Cup, the 90,000-seat Maracanã Soccer Stadium is remarkable to see. Soccer, like samba, is a national pastime and touring the stadium’s Hall of Fame steers you through Brazil’s most amazing moments in the sport.
> With renowned beaches such as Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon there is a spot in the sand for everyone. As you wander the length of white sand on Ipanema, you’ll notice the beach is composed of sub-cultures of every description, each attracting its own loyalists. Ipanema’s lifeguard Post 9 (at Joana Angelica Street) is a good place to get your bearings. People watching here can be eye-popping, but that’s exactly why you do it. Copacabana is considered the “most touristy” beach, perhaps thanks to Barry Manilow, but is just the place to hang out if Ipanema feels too bohemian for you.
> Barra da Tijuca is just the opposite; it’s the youngest and most modern commercial district in Rio. A city of its own, “Barra” as it is known by locals, is a reflection of Rio’s growth and expanding middle class, though it is considered too “Americanized” by many. Its so-called “downtown” is a gigantic open-air shopping mall boasting hundreds of shops and restaurants. “Barra Shopping” is a megamall with its own monorail and 600 shops under one roof.
> Hilly Santa Teresa will take you back to the city’s colonial roots and aristocratic haunts. Dining al fresco on the terrace of the Hotel Santa Teresa is a relaxing way to contemplate the rich history of this unique renaissance district.
Know before you go:
1. Caipirinhas
The famous Brazilian drink is sold everywhere (on the streets for as little as $1).
Even though it tastes citrusy and light,
make three your max or you won’t be
able to stand up.
2. Patience
Things in Rio take longer than you might
be accustomed to. Brazilians don’t have the urgency Americans do and take their time
with everything.
3. Safety
Everyone will tell you to be careful in
Rio and that crime is everywhere. But
in truth, safety here is just like in any
other big city: it all comes down to
common sense. Don’t wear flashy
jewelry or keep cameras out in the
open. Check with your hotel
concierge before venturing out into unfamiliar territory.
4. Affection
When you are introduced to a Carioca, kiss both cheeks when meeting men and women. If you are a man, never kiss another man.
5. Joie de Vivre
It is the French who invented it but it’s the Cariocas who own it. Celebrate each day in Rio with life-lusting zeal just like the natives and you will feel at home.
HOT PLACES TO STAY
The copacabana Palace
The Scoop: Classic luxury, historic hotel
Location: Copacabana Beach Price: from $410
This hotel is easily the best-known and most glamorous address in Rio. Run by Orient-Express, the Copacabana’s rooms and suites are traditionally decorated and very plush. It’s mostly famous for its famous clientele, claiming autographs in its thick register from Mick Jagger, John Wayne and many heads of state. But the legend goes that it was Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers’ dance at the Copacabana Palace in Flying Down to Rio that made the hotel the place to stay. It’s simply the ultimate choice for those looking for white glove treatment and a ritzy Rio experience. www.copacabanapalace.com
Fasano
The Scoop: Modern boutique hotel with sexy design
Location: Ipanema Beach Price: from $510
This Phillipe Starck-designed Fasano Hotel screams style. The swanky rooftop pool with sweeping views and stiff drinks attracts a superbly fashionable crowd. It’s also great for stargazing. Fasano’s famed restaurant, Fasano Al Mare, is a huge player in Rio’s restaurant scene, pairing authentic Florentine cuisine with Mediterranean seafood. Fasano’s Londra is the hottest bar in town. The sexy nightclub draws beautiful people and celebrities like Madonna, who had her after-concert party there in 2008. People don’t just mingle, they become friends and connections form. While sipping caipirinhas at Londra one night, Luis Tepedino, the club’s famous DJ (who also happens to be an orthodontist by day and owner of a fashionable beach club) suggested I meet his friend, Lenny Niehmeyer. The next day I found myself face-to-face with Lenny, who is the leading bikini designer of Brazil.
www.fasano.com.br
Hotel Santa Teresa
The Scoop: Romantic getaway
Location: Santa Teresa Price: from $250
Hotel Santa Teresa bears the name of the famous cobblestone street neighborhood where it is nestled in a restored mansion. Atop the hill overlooking Guanabara Bay, the Santa Teresa offers a captivating hideaway. It’s a sophisticated and inviting, French infused alternative to the beachfront resorts, with an outstanding restaurant and boutique spa. Established in the 1700s around the Carmelite Convent, this artsy, old town neighborhood is chock-full of galleries, boutiques and restaurants. Hotel Santa Teresa is the newest addition to Rio’s hotel scene and offers a relaxing oasis away from the bustling city. www.santateresahotel.com
Intercontinental Rio
The Scoop: Business hotel on a budget
Location: Pepino Beach Price: from $195
On the less-crowded Pepino beach of Sao Conrado, the Intercontinental Rio sits overlooking a seaside golf course and enjoys a solid convention and business clientele. The great advantage of staying here is that it’s something of an oasis, but still close to the major beaches and shopping areas. Hang gliders, launched from Pedra Bonita ridge, land between unfazed sunbathers on the beach below. www.intercontinental.com/rio
WHERE TO EAT
Falling for Rio includes a love affair with the city’s restaurant scene. Sushi, Italian, seafood and of course, churrascarias (a.k.a. Brazilian all-you-can-eat steak houses) are everywhere. You can’t go wrong even at a local fast food joint. Meat is always fresh, veggies succulent and great care is taken to prepare every plate.
Fasano Al Mare: One of the trendiest restaurants in the city serves haute Mediterranean-inspired seafood and is helmed by an Italian chef brought in from the three-Michelin-starred Enoteca Pinchiorri in Florence. It’s pricey but worth it. Av. Vieira Souto 80, Rio de Janeiro; +55 21-3202-4000
Sushi Leblon: Another hot spot frequented by the rich and the beautiful. The sushi bar is said to be one of the favorite hangouts for Tom Cruise, Katie Holmes, Naomi Campbell and other stars when they visit Rio. Rua dias Ferreia 256, Leblon, +55 21-2512-7830
Porcão: For traditional Brazilian churrascarias, where servers carve perfectly grilled meats at your table, this restaurant can’t be beat. Hence, it’s a bit touristy, but with a delightful and extensive buffet to accompany rapid-fire servings of lamb, beef and sausages, it’s a perfect place for large appetites. Aterro do Flamengo near Av. Rui Barbosa, Rio de Janeiro; +55 21-3389-8989
Colombo Coffee House: Established in 1894, this place is best for the gilded tea experience. Get over the nominal fee they charge just to walk in; you’ll want to stay and savor a perfect cappuccino and a marzipan-laced petit-four (or three) as you slip back in time
and recharge for more sightseeing.
Rua Concalves Dias, 32; Rio de Janeiro; +55 21 2232-2300
Rio Scenarium: Located in a renovated warehouse on the edge of the Lapa neighborhood, this antiques-store-turned-bar is a great place to samba all night. Weekend reservations are hard to come by so book ahead. It doesn’t help that Rio Scenarium is recommended in practically every travel book, but it’s worth a look and a dance. Rua do Lavradio, 20 Centro, Rio de Janeiro; +55 21-3852-5516
Academia da Cachaça (ka-SHA-sa): This restaurant/bar is a local hangout and the place for caipirinhas. Make sure you order food with your drinks; try the famous black bean soup or salted pork stew. Rua Conde Bernadotte, 26, Rio de Janeiro; +55 21-2529-2680
BIKINI MANIA
Rio is packed with great stores, but there
are only two things it is famous for: Brazilian bikinis and Havaianas. You can’t go home without buying a pair or two of its famous bikinis and if you are like me, you will be checking a bag full of Havaianas on your return flight.
Lenny: The grand dame of Brazilian bikinis, Lenny’s designs are young, chic and sexy. Her store in Ipanema is simply irresistible! Collections vary constantly, but one thing never changes — the smaller the better. It’s hard to choose one because every bikini will mold your body so perfectly. Her fabrics cling to your skin and are so thin, you will feel you are going bare. Lenny’s designs are different from anything you’ve seen anywhere in Europe or the United States.
Rua Garcia d’Avila 149, Ipanema,
+55 021-2227-5537
Blue Man: Perfect for sporty and casual bikinis, this shop is famous for mix-and-match tops and bottoms. The styles and colors will give you a quick feel for the current beach fashions for both men and women. I thought the selection was a bit limited, but the fit was superb and prices are reasonable.
Rua Visconde de Piraja, 351 LJ108, Ipanema, +55 021-2247-4905
MX Bazaar: You’ll think you died and went to Havaianas heaven. This tiny shop on the corner of Rua Sao Clemente just blocks from the beach, is a real gem. Dozens of styles of Havaianas for men, women and children can be had for as little as $3 a pair!
Rua Sao Clemente 258, Botafogo