Musical Tourism: Do-Re-Meet me in Salzburg
Salzburg was home to one of the musical world's most famous sons - Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. But, he's not the only noted songwriter to hail from this city. Those wanting to visit the birthplace of the man who wrote the lyrics to Silent Night can find it here - Joseph Mohr was born in Salzburg in 1792. The house where the famous lyricist was born still stands at #31 Steingasse, a popular artists' hangout that was originally the ancient Roman entrance into the city. Mohr's poetic text was later put to music by Franz Gruber. Visitors can tour the Silent Night Chapel, formerly St. Nicholas Church, in Oberndorf, 13 miles north of Salzburg. It's here where the famous song was first performed on Christmas Eve in 1818. The Heimatmuseum highlights the history of the beloved carol.
No matter what time of year you visit Austria, you'll find a musical treat awaiting. The Salzburger Festspiele, as the locals call it, is held every summer for five weeks beginning at the end of July. Symphony, opera and theatre fill the itinerary with everything from Berlioz to Barenboim, Moliére to Mahler. Book early if you're thinking about going. This is the city's busiest time of year and choice hotels sell out early.
You can trace the footsteps of Mozart by walking through the Old City or Altstadt. Making your way down the main street, Getreidegasse, you can't help but notice the bright yellow house at number 9. This is Mozart's Geburtshaus, the house where the man himself was born. A museum dedicated to his life now fills the space where his family once lived. Visitors can see the prodigy's childhood violin, as well as miniature sets of Mozart's most famous operas. From Mozart's Geburtshaus, make a right onto Getreidegasse and you'll run into Mozartplatz, where a life-size statue honors Salzburg's most beloved musician. Just above Mozart's statue is the musical Glockenspiel set atop the Neue Residenz or New Residence. Thirty-five bells play classical tunes every day at 7AM, 11AM and 6PM.
Next to the Glockenspiel is one of the city's most impressive architectural structures. The Dom or Cathedral is believed to be one of the finest early Italian Baroque buildings this side of the Alps. Mozart was baptized in this church and later served as its organist. Come to mass here on a Sunday at 10AM and you're in for a musical feast. It's the only church in the world with five separately fixed organs. travelgirl tip: Churches around the city have evening concerts from time to time and chances are they'll be playing something by Mozart.
Even if you don't catch a Mozart symphony, you could hear one of his operas as told by puppets. That's right, puppets! The Marionettentheater is one of the oldest and most famous marionette theaters in the world. See an opera here and you'll forget there are people manipulating strings as life-like puppets stage a Mozart Opera - marionette-style. The charm and simplicity of these productions make them especially appealing to children.
The marionette puppets shown in The Sound of Music are long gone, but the sights where the movie was filmed are a highlight best viewed via official Sound of Music tours, offered by several companies, usually twice a day. A tour normally lasts for four hours, and you'll get to see a lot of the city and its surroundings. From Mirabellplatz where the tours begin, you'll pass by the railway where the real von Trapp family escaped to freedom from the Nazis. (No, they didn't really climb those mountains.) You'll visit the gazebo, movie scene of the songs 16 Going On 17, and Something Good. You will pass by the facades used as the von Trapps' home. But, the best part comes last, with a visit to the gorgeous lake and mountain area of Salzkammergut. Enjoy a stroll along Lake Wolfgang and end the tour at the delightful town of Mondsee, where you can walk down the same aisle at the church (St. Michael's) where Julie Andrews and Christopher Plummer staged the wedding scene. Hundreds of people a day take this tour, following the movie camera's footprints. On the day I went, our guide, Christl Michelangeli, dressed in Austrian Dirndl, said she believes The Sound of Music tours are popular because the movie is such a classic. "It's as well known as Gone With The Wind," she insists. "People come because the music sticks in their heads and because of the scenery."
Wondering if you'll be hearing any part of the movie soundtrack on the tour? The answer is yes. Guides play it while tourists "do, re, mi" along, making the hills once again come alive with the sound of, well, you know. It's a cheesy but fun way to see many of Salzburg's highlights, especially if you don't have a lot of time to spend at one particular attraction.
If you do find yourself with time on your hands, there is plenty to explore. The most popular attraction in the city can be seen from just about everywhere. The Hohensalzburg Fortress was built in 1077 as a defense and residence for many of the country's prince-archbishops. The citadel, central Europe's largest and most fully preserved structure, was also used as a military barracks and a prison. You can climb it by foot starting at the Cathedral, or take the cable car. Either way, you're headed for a breathtaking panorama of the Alps.
Below the south side of the fortress is the Nonnberg Abbey. Built in 700, the convent is popular for tourists because it was home to the real Maria von Trapp and the Abbey church here was actually where she and Baron von Trapp were married. The exterior of the convent was recreated for the movie. A group of Benedictine nuns still resides here, making it the oldest convent in the German-speaking world. Tourists are welcome to visit its various artifacts and frescoes.
One of the city's oldest artifacts can only be found underground. Tour the salt mines just outside of Salzburg and you'll understand what it was like to mine this "white gold" like the Celts did thousands of years ago. The salt gave the town its name - and its prosperity.
Just south of the city lies the Hellbrunn Palace. But, most tourists don't come to visit this 17th-century villa as much as they do to play in the water. You see, for 400 years, the Hellbrunn Mountain has been supplying the estate with numerous hidden water sources. That means that trick fountains (known as wasserspiele) jet out from the most unexpected places -
creating an amusing way to cool off on a hot summer day.
However, you won't find any tricks among the fountains at Mirabell Gardens - the waterworks here are simply the perfect accent to the manicured flowers and sculptures on the right bank of the Salzach River. These gardens were designed to emphasize the beauty and grandeur of Mirabell Palace. This 17th-century house now serves as the seat of government. Mozart used to perform in its marble-laden rooms. Even today, chamber music concerts are often held by candlelight. In the summer, expect to hear musical events held outside in the gardens.
Close to Mirabell is the Mozart Residence, where the family lived after Mozart's birth, and where the famous composer wrote many works, including Idomeneo. Numerous exhibits are on display, including a history of the life and works of Wolfgang, as well as an array of musical instruments. Audio guides are available in several languages.
Shopping in Salzburg
You'll want to do more than window shop on Getreidegasse. This is Salzburg's main shopping street in the Old City. You can find just about anything here from traditional Austrian clothing to the latest fashions, leather goods, antiques, jewelry and perfumes.
Mozart souvenirs are everywhere, including CDs featuring music played on original Mozart instruments, posters, T-shirts and stationery. Probably the most popular souvenir is edible: the Original Mozartkugel, a chocolate praline invented in the late 19th century. The city is full of shops that will help you remember the area long after you've gone home. Visitors can buy historic watercolor paintings or copies of famous compositions such as Silent Night. "Trachten" are the traditional costumes in Salzburg, but they are also very popular in Austria's modern fashion lineup. Christmas ornaments, and room fresheners called gew¨rzsträussls (made from bundles of spices) make popular gifts to take home.
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