Travel to the Past to Witness the Future!
written by Stephanie Abrams

The Slieve Donard Hotel in Newcastle

Let me whisk you off to a place that will plunge you into the past with a vantage point to see the future! Ireland and Northern Ireland present the most incredible combination of powerful natural beauty, historic sites and amazingly warm and welcoming people. The cities of Dublin and Cork are certainly worth your attention, but too many visitors never get to the west, the northwest or to Northern Ireland! Here are some of my favorite places to add to your Irish "must visit" list:

Travel tip: When planning your journey, ask your travel agent for flights into Shannon or Ireland West Knock International Airport on the west coast of Ireland. Consider flying home from Belfast or Dublin or making a grand circle to fly roundtrip using the same airport. If you're flying from NYC's JFK Airport or Boston's Logan International, service is now available on the Scottish airline Globespan (www.flyglobespan.com), offering low-cost economy and upgraded classes of service to Ireland West Knock Airport, located midway between Galway and Donegal, putting you in a great spot to start a west coast journey.

HIGHLIGHTS:

Arriving in Shannon: For 6 euros (about $8) take a shuttle bus from Shannon Airport to Ennis, multiple winner of the Ireland's Tidiest Town award. Get off at the Temple Gate Hotel, an oasis of hospitality run by the Maddon family in the center of town. You'll be steps from boutique-filled streets and historic buildings. A newly constructed highway bypasses Ennis so watch carefully for signs to direct you if you choose to rent a car at Shannon. Enjoy a hearty Irish breakfast or lunch, meander through winding streets and visit Sean Spellisy's Book Store. If you liked the film 84 Charring Cross Road you will love Sean's shop! He has written many books on County Clare and has the answers to all of your questions. Make Ennis your home base for two or three nights while you visit Limerick, Foynes, Bunratty and the Cliffs of Moher.

In Limerick: (30-minute drive from Ennis) Visit the King John's Castle and its ancient Viking ruins. Limerick also houses a reproduction of Frank McCourt's childhood hovel depicted in the film Angela's Ashes, based on his book.

In Foynes: (across an inlet from Ennis, take the car ferry or drive 30 minutes) Tour the Flying Boat Museum and learn about an interesting chapter in aviation history. Another perk: Irish Coffee was created by bartender Joe Sheridan at Foynes Airport during the days of the Flying Boat. Since the Flying Boat was actually the nickname for planes that landed in water, passengers were often damp and cold on arrival. Joe fixed them "something special" to keep them warm on a cold night. The legend of this whisky-laced coffee spread when a New York Times journalist visited Foynes and wrote about the tasty concoction. This led to the owner of San Francisco's Buena Vista Cafe enticing Joe to work for him. Incredibly, Irish Coffee has become a household phrase in the US, while the Flying Boat and Foynes, Ireland are still well kept secrets!

Historic tidbit: The Flying Boat, built by Boeing, flew from NYC's LaGuardia Airport to Newfoundland, Canada and later, onward to Foynes. At Foynes' Flying Boat Museum, you'll see a reproduction of a Flying Boat installed in a pool of water. The museum holds fabulous memorabilia and photos of the rich and famous that flew into Foynes until the early 1950s. Margaret O'Shaughnessy, founder of the Foynes Flying Boat Museum, who raised two million euros to make this museum a reality, will tell you, "Anybody who was anybody coming to Europe would have flown on a Flying Boat."

Donegal Bay

Heading north: First stop: the new Visitors Centre at the Cliffs of Moher. The car parks and center are built into the backs of hillsides for a natural view. Enter the Visitors Centre Exhibition Hall and you have the illusion of walking through water to reach the exhibits. On to Galway! A 90-minute drive brings you to the downtown shopping area. Visit the jewelry store where the famous Irish Claddagh Ring was created, symbolizing love, friendship and loyalty. Ready for a splurge? Stay at Glenlo Abbey in Bushy Park, just two miles from Galway. You'll find a championship golf course, a restaurant housed in retired train cars (including the one used in the Agatha Christie film, Murder on the Orient Express) and the charm and warmth of the Bourke family, who will make sure your expectations are exceeded.

If you've arrived at Ireland West Knock International Airport: You're halfway between Galway and Donegal! Drive for miles on country roads before you ever encounter another car and within ten minutes you'll be at your first significant attraction: the Knock Shrine, where an apparition of the Our Lady of Knock Queen of Ireland, St. Joseph and St. John the Evangelist was seen in 1879. Also worth a look: the Knock Folk Museum.

In County Donegal: The coastline of Ireland's west and northwest are a photographer's paradise. The waves are incredible and are occasionally as high as 40 feet! You can take surfing lessons for beginners at the Fin McCool Surf School in Rossnowlagh, County Donegal, located on a beautiful stretch of the North Atlantic beach. It's run by its founder, Irish Surfing Champion Neil Britton, whose family owns the wonderful Sandhouse Hotel that dominates a gorgeous stretch of Rossnowlagh beachfront.

Stop in to take the 30-minute tour of the 15th-century Donegal Castle, which was restored in the 1990s. From Donegal Castle, drive along the coastline just minutes away to witness cliffs measuring twice the height of the Cliffs of Moher. Drive to the upper lot, park your car and a 45-minute walk to the pinnacle provides a spectacular view.

The four-star Sandhouse Hotel and Marine Spa at Rossnowlagh Beach

In Derry/Londonderry: Check your map and you'll find the city noted as Londonderry. Those who live in Protestant neighborhoods call their town Londonderry while Catholics refer to Derry. Red- white- and blue-striped curbs and painted poles mark the Protestant sectors. Green, white and orange striping signifies Catholic neighborhoods. This is a painful sight! Good news: peace has worked wonders on the townspeople who appreciate the quality of life that peace brings. To bring the history of Derry to life in a meaningful way, contact City Tours at derrycitytours@aol.com or visit www.irishtourguides.com. If you can get Martin McCrossan, the company's proprietor, to be your tour guide, ask him to share his personal experiences growing up in Derry. The city is dotted with building-sized murals depicting past heartbreaking times. Originally painted in black-and-white, the murals are being repainted in full color, symbolizing the current peace and hopes for a peaceful future.

After the historic announcements of March 2007 confirming the path of sustained peace in Northern Ireland and its relationship with the Republic of Ireland, visiting the city of Derry completes the travelgirl's meaningful understanding of centuries of hardship past. There is sincere appreciation and love expressed for the American people here in acknowledgement of the role played by the government to resolve the conflict and accept a sustainable peace.

Two miles outside of downtown Derry, you'll find a rustic, country hotel called the Beech Hill Country House Hotel that has an amazing US connection. During WWII the house served as the officers' quarters for the US Marines who were stationed in Derry as a strategic point to target Nazi U-boats in the waters around Derry. You'll find a memorial at the Beech Hill House devoted to the US Marines, with photos, documents and memorabilia as well as a monument in the garden commemorating the US Marines and their contribution to the war effort in Ireland. Owner Patsy O'Kane's family turned the house into a charming hotel.

Around Belfast: From Derry, you're only 30 minutes from Belfast where you can visit the museum devoted to the story of the Titanic, which was built at a Belfast shipyard, and the beautiful Botanical Gardens across the road. Drive about 75 minutes north of Belfast and you'll be at Giants Causeway, a must visit for every travelgirl. Walk onto the rock formations formed by nature as octagons, hexagons and pentagons, from two- to 30-feet high and stand, sit, relax and contemplate the wonders that you'll find in this incredible place.

In Belfast: Choose The Merchant Hotel. Once the Ulster Bank, its dining room, the former main banking floor, is as ornate as the chateaux in France! Marble columns topped by carved cherubs draped in gilt, carved garlands of flowers and fruit border the ceiling, and red velvet banquets complete the sense of stepping into a Victorian valentine. The guest rooms, former bank offices, are stylishly comfortable and trendy with sumptuous bedding and marble bathrooms.

In County Down: Complete your inspirational journey by traveling 30 minutes to County Down where, in Downpatrick, you'll find the Saint Patrick Centre, a unique interactive attraction that tells the story of Patrick, taken from his book, The Confession. Using 21st century technology and graphics, including an IMAX theatre presentation, you'll be inspired by the story of St. Patrick's entry into Ireland as a slave and his impact on Ireland. On the hillside behind the Saint Patrick Centre, you'll find Down Cathedral where three saints are buried: Saint Patrick, St. Brigid and St. Colomcille. Two miles away you’ll find the first church built in Ireland by St. Patrick.

Some 39,000 farmers keep sheep in Ireland

To continue the sense of history, tradition and elegance, stay at the idyllic Slieve Donard Hotel. The architecture and majesty of the building is nothing short of awe inspiring! The hotel backs up to the Royal County Down Golf Course and they've added an impressive spa.

In Dublin: On the way to Dublin, which is two hours away, visit Newgrange, a 5,000-year-old structure that rivals Stonehenge in its historic importance. In Dublin, see the Book of Kells at Trinity College, shop on Grafton Street, and stop at Shanahan's "Oval Office Bar" for a taste of Americana. You'll find framed pictures and memorabilia from American presidents of Irish descent or who had a positive impact on Ireland, including JFK's rocking chair.

The Last Night: Before heading home, stay at Dublin's whimsical hotel, The Morgan, right out of Alice in Wonderland, located in the happenin' Temple Bar section next to the Hard Rock Cafe. For a quick getaway on your day of departure from Dublin, consider staying outside of Dublin near the airport to beat the traffic. Another good bet is The Beacon Hotel in Sandyford. If you want to continue the flavor of your historic journey, you'll be able to make your morning flight with an early start if you stay at Fitzpatrick Castle in Killiney, County Dublin.

Stephanie Abrams, recognized as a leading radio travel expert and as one of the "100 Most Powerful Women in Travel," is host of the weekly Travel WITH Stephanie Abrams, heard coast-to-coast on the Business Talk Radio Network, appears weekly on radio's syndicated "Traveling Feet!" and is executive producer of the TV Series "JetSet411." Visit Abrams award-winning website www.abrams.com for archived radio shows, extensive photo gallery and travel information. Address questions to Stephanie@sabrams.com

tg
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