Two Scenic Drives on the Wild Side of the Wine Country
story by Carole Jacobs, Fitness Editor

Attention all road warriors! Sonoma County is laced with scenic drives that coil along coastal cliffs, ramble past bucolic farmlands and poke into fascinating little towns. Come in Februaryor March to spy on migrating whales, or in the spring to see the coastal headlands and fields explode in wildflowers. Whether you come in summer for the beaches, in fall for the gorgeous autumn colors and the colorful flocks of brown and gold Monarch butterflies, or in winter to witness migrating whales and awesome winter storm waves, the Sonoma Coast has the most in terms of wild scenery and every imaginable type of recreational pursuits. Here are two of our favorite drives:

Stop 3: Power walks at Sonoma County State Beaches: Unlike those inaccessible beaches further north, which are pretty to look at but impossible to get to (unless you happen to have wings or a climbing rope), Sonoma County’s breathtaking beaches are convenient, drive-in strands that have all of the beauty of those northern beaches without any of the hassles of getting there. Each beach is a world unto itself, so give yourself plenty of time to explore each and every one en route.

Fit stop Op 1: Stretch your legs on the half-mile trail at Pinnacle Beach, which leads through a narrow canyon along a winter stream.

Fit stop Op 2: Hit the Boardwalk Trail at Bodega Dunes, with eye-popping ocean views and a stairway to the sea where you can beach comb for miles.

Fit stop Op 3: At Salmon Creek Beach, hike past beautiful dunes to Salmon Creek, then explore the tiny community nestled against the beach.

Fit stop Op 4: Follow short trails down to eye-popping beaches at Carmet Beach, Schoolhouse Beach. Portuguese Beach, which is long and protected, is the perfect place to work up an appetite for a fresh seafood lunch.

 

Stop 4: Bodega Dunes is just a few miles north of Bodega Bay, so plan to head there around lunch time for some fresh seafood at the marina.

 

Stop 4: Jenner: Enjoy gentle kayaking at the Jenner Estuary, a calm, protected stretch of river shielded from the Pacific Ocean by Goat Rock Beach. Rent kayaks just upstream at the town of Duncan's Mills. The outfit will drop you off at Jenner where you can paddle around, then head upstream back to Duncan's Mills when the wind will pick up and practically carry you home.

Overnight stop: The Jenner Inn and Cottages: Like something from Winnie-the-Pooh, this charming collection of cottages has rooms with views, antiques, fireplaces and more, all overlooking the Russian River as it makes it way to the sea (just across the highway.) Every room is different, which only adds to the fun. The Gull Room features a quilted bed, old oak wardrobe and a deck overlooking the river while Captain Will’s Room has a hand-carved headboard, living room with a wood stove, and an antique rocker where you can rest your weary bones.

Day 2
Stop 1: Head north to Salt Point State Park, located 19 miles north, featuring one of the first underwater parks in California, but the views above water aren’t too shabby, either. Imagine rocky promontories, panoramic views, kelp-dotted coves, and the dramatic sounds of pounding surf, open grasslands, forested hills, pristine prairies, and pygmy forests — you can experience all of these coastal wonders within the 6,000 acres of Salt Point State Park. With 20 miles of hiking trails, over six miles of rugged coastline, and an underwater park, you can enjoy a variety of picnicking, hiking, horseback riding, fishing, skin and SCUBA diving, and camping. Salt Point also has beautiful tide pools that can keep you entranced for hours.

Stop 6: Stop to smell (or admire, out of season) the rhododendrons at Kruse Rhododendron Reserve.

Overnight stop: Sea Ranch Lodge. This classic Sonoma coast getaway comes with miles of secluded beaches that are perfect for a moonlight stroll, lots of hiking trails, fields of wildflowers and beautiful bluffs and an eco-friendly lodge that blends in so well with the surrounding sands that you have to really look to see it. The lodge is faced with weathered wood siding and has 20 rooms with ocean or ridge views. Enjoy healthy eats at the restaurants, unwind in the solarium or take a scenic spin along the bike trails.

Day 3: Drive back to Bodega Bay and feast on views of sea, sand, tidal pools, and fields rolling to evergreen forests. You won’t believe how different everything looks driving south. Hike some of the trails you didn’t have time for yesterday, and time your arrival back at Bodega Bay Lodge & Resort to catch a glowing sunset, following by a yummy dinner, spa treatment and cushy bed.

Scenic Drive 2:
Get High on the Bohemian Highway!

The eco-friendly Sea Ranch Lodge

So you were too young (or old) to go to Woodstock? No prob — it’s always the ’60s along the Bohemian Highway, where sleepy two-laners wind and twist past a collection of funky hippy towns tucked in towering Redwoods, and crammed with the sorts of shops and cafes you’d expect in the land of the counterculture (bead shops, plant shops, second-hand stores, vegetarian restaurants, jewelry boutiques and crusty taverns that open at 8a.m. While this scenic drive does not include a guide to the Bohemian Highway’s biggest cash crop (hey dude, by high we mean altitude, as this drive climbs from the coast to the wine country) you can find anything you want (well, practically) by visiting one of the area’s many funky eateries. So leave the hustle and bustle of the 21st century (as well as cell phone signals) far far behind. Trust us, this scenic drive is a real trip!

Start Here: Begin at The Jenner Inn and Cottages is a beautiful bed and breakfast on the coast that overlooks the Russian River at the north end of the scenic drive. Every room is different: The Gull Room has a quilted bed, old oak wardrobe and a deck overlooking the river, while the Wills Room features a hand-carved headboard and a living room with an antique rocker, wood stove, and loft for extra guests. Have breakfast at the inn, and then drive south to Highway 116, which winds inland along the Russian River.
Stop 1: Duncans Mills. OK, so the general store and café are repros, but the vibes of the ’60s are the real deal. The airy coffee shop is a great place to sip a latte while reading a complimentary copy of The Bohemian, your unofficial guide to the underground wonders and alternative lifestyle of this redwood forest paradise. Come in June for the Duncans Mills Arts and Crafts Festival featuring high-quality items made by local craftsmen and women. Buy a bottle of local wine at Wine Tasting of Sonoma.

• Fit Stop: Rent a canoe or kayak from Burke's Canoes for a scenic wine-float down the river. Be careful not to overdo it or you may find yourself paddling in the Pacific.

Stop 2: Occidental: This charming, restored town is a fascinating artists colony chock full of galleries, antique shops, cafés, antique shops and great restaurants, including two dueling Italian restaurants — The Union Hotel, housed in a 1879 building and Negri’s, just across the street. Caution: Occidental is so addictive you may not be able to get back in your car. That’s OK. You can always spend the night at The Inn at Occidental, a charming Victorian homestead encircled by a wide porch with lots of pink geraniums and white wicker rockers. Guestrooms come with the works: fireplaces, spa tubs, antiques and original artwork from the owner’s private collection and the nightly rate includes a full breakfast and lots of afternoon goodies. Hungry? Just follow the tantalizing smell of spaghetti sauce to one of the town’s Italian eateries. We hear they are both fabuloso, so you may consider flipping a coin. Or what the heck! As long as you’re in Occidental, why not go whole-hog and try them both? You can have your appetizer and salad at one restaurant, and then waltz across the street for pasta and dessert.

Stop 3: Monte Rio: This still life of a town has an old-time bridge that spans the Russian River. Enjoy swimming, kayaking, canoeing, and boating on the river. Walk to the public beach for sunbathing, or check out the town’s one-of-a-kind movie theater, housed in a Quonset hut with an enormous mural depicting the history of the town. There’s even a humorous hand-drawn painting near the box office that shows the waterline when the Russian River overflowed its banks and left the entire town under water.

Stop 4: Osmosis Enzyme Bath & Spa, Freestone: Leave it to The Bohemian Highway to deliver one of the most unusual spas on earth. Park your shoes at the front door and step inside this fragrant East-meets-West universe for an up-to-your neck soak in a tub-full of what appears to be sawdust, but is actually a soothing concoction of a cedar-and-rice-bran mixture laced with 600 imported plant enzymes — all aimed to detox, rejuvenate and give you that blissful Woodstock feeling. If all this sounds too counter culterish, you can always cop out and get an aromatherapy massage. But why do something ordinary when you can be the first person on your block to be buried in enzymes? All treatments include a tea ceremony in a Japanese garden.

Stop 5: The Wild Flour Bakery: Just a short drive from the spa, you can fuel up on homemade artisan breads baked right on the premises, order a couple loaves for the road or just hang out and watch the bakers knead huge mounds of dough. All the breads are baked in a huge brick oven, which gives them a distinctive hearty, crunchy texture and taste. The bakery also makes irresistible sticky buns and brownies and cookies. Don’t say we didn’t warn you.

Stop 6: Overnight stop: Guerneville: By the time you get to Guerneville, you’ve left the coast behind for the rolling ranchlands and vineyards of the Sonoma Valley. Once a haven for hippies and bikers, the town is now an artsy town with tons of great restaurants and boutiques. The town has also become a Mecca for upscale gays and lesbians from the Bay area. Stay at Applewood Inn Bed & Breakfast, a grand old 1922 California Mission, formerly the country home of a wealthy banker.Chill out in the whirlpool baths, couples showers, cozy sitting rooms with fireplaces, the outdoor swimming pool and spa beyond the stone courtyard, with a bubbling lion’s head fountain, or pop a cork and enjoy some local wine in the Mediterranean-style garden. Tucked in giant redwoods, orchards and vineyards, this is an oasis you may find hard to leave, especially when you slip into bed between hand-pressed linens and European-style comforters.
Wake up to a gourmet breakfast of eggs Florentine, French toast and more served in the airy Applewood Restaurant.
Dinner on the town: Try to pry yourself away from the resort long enough to sample one of Guerneville’s fine eateries. The Sweet River’s Grill serves hearty fare on a front patio overlooking the river while Fifes, an intimate eatery with a stone fireplace, pine wallsand exposed beam rafters, dishes up sophisticated California cuisine and fine wines.

Day 2:
Stop 1: Spend an hour or two exploring downtown Guerneville, with its shops and cool bookstores like the River Reader. Before hitting the highway, get a java jolt at the Coffee Bazaar in town, which also serves lots of irresistible homemade goodies (in case you didn’t get enough at breakfast).

Stop 2: Ready for some excitement? See the wine country from the air by taking a thrilling balloon ride. Air Flamboyant Hot Air Balloon Rides takes off from nearby Healdsburg for astounding views of the Alexander and Dry Creek valleys, the Russian River, and more. And in case you’re still hungry the ride includes an après-ride brunch.

Stop 3: Back on terra firma, get grounded by heading to Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve. Burn off some calories by taking a walk beneath ancient redwoods soaring 300 feet tall. Saddle up for a half-day horseback ride with Armstrong Woods Pack Station. Then check out rare redwood orchids at Austin Creek, which has an amphitheater that was once used for summer concerts

Stop 4: BYO wheels or rent a bicycle for a scenic ride along River Road between Guerneville and Windsor. You’ll spin past rolling hills, vineyards and farms. Backroads offers weeklong trips through the towns of Bodega Bay, Sonoma, Yountville, Calistoga and Healdsburg. Call 800-462-2848. Prefer to scout the area by water? Between May and October, you can rent a canoe, kayak or paddleboat at Johnson’s Beach, just under the main bridge in town. (The beach is also a great place to catch some rays.)
Retrace your route back to Monte Rio.

Overnight stop: Settle into Huckleberry Springs Country Inn, which sits on 56 acres in the hills above Monte Rio. All of the cottages are unique, but the most unusual is the round Cherry Barrel, formerly a building for curing cherries. Chill out with a massage in the spa cottage or get steam-cleaned in the outdoor Jacuzzi and pool. Monte Rio may be in the sticks, but it has no shortage of culture. Catch a play at the Pegasus, a live theater company in town, or head for the Quonset movie theater and catch a first-run Hollywood flick.